Archive-name: pet-ferret-faq/general
Last-modified: 2 June 1994
Version: 1.2

FERRET FAQ -- GENERAL INFORMATION
Compiled and edited by Pamela Greene (pgreene@optics.rochester.edu)
Additions, corrections, and suggestions for this file are welcomed!

This document is copyright 1994 by Pamela L. Greene.  See section 0.5
for authorship information and redistribution rights.  In short, you
can give it away, but you can't charge for it.

Please note: I am not a ferret expert, and I did not write, nor did I
independently verify, all the information in this file.  I have done
my best to include only accurate and useful information, but I cannot
guarantee that what is contained in this file, whether written by me
or by one of the contributors, is correct, or even that following the
advice herein won't be harmful to you or your ferret in some way.  For
advice from an expert, you may wish to consult one of several books
available, or, especially in the case of a suspected medical problem,
a veterinarian who is familiar with the treatment of ferrets.

------------------------------

Subject: CONTENTS 

0. *** About this FAQ ***
   <0.1> Notes on formatting
   <0.2> Where to get this file
   <0.3> Goal of this FAQ
   <0.4> Credits and editor's notes
   <0.5> Copyright and redistribution information

1. *** Introduction to ferrets *** 
   <1.1> What are ferrets?  Should I get one?  What's good and bad
         about them as pets?
   <1.2> Are ferrets wild animals?  Why are there ferret permits and
         FFZs?
   <1.3> What's the average ferret lifespan?
   <1.4> I'm allergic to cats.  Will I be allergic to ferrets?
   <1.5> What's this I hear about ferrets attacking babies?

2. *** Getting a pet ferret ***

   <2.1> Which color is the best?  Male or a female?  What age?
   <2.2> How many should I get?  All at once, or one at a time?
   <2.3> Do I need a license or permit?  How do I find out?
   <2.4> Where can I get a pet ferret?  How do I choose a "good" one?
   <2.5> What do these little blue dots in my kit's ear mean?  What's
         the deal with Marshall Farms?
   <2.6> I just got another ferret.  How can I introduce him/her to my 
         old one(s) with the least trouble?
   <2.7> How can I introduce my ferret to my (dog/cat/bird/fish/
         rabbit/etc.) with the least trouble?

3. *** Things you'll need ***

   <3.1> What will I need to take care of my new ferret?
   <3.2> Do I need a cage?  How should I set it up?
   <3.3> The pet store uses wood shavings as bedding.  Should I?
   <3.4> What should I feed my ferret?
   <3.5> Should I give my ferret any supplements?
   <3.6> What are good treats?
   <3.7> What kind of litter should I use?
   <3.8> What kind of collar/bell/tag should I use?
   <3.9> Any suggestions on toys?

4. *** Basic ferret care and training ***

   <4.1> How can I best ferretproof my home?
   <4.2> What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when?
   <4.3> Do I need to spay/neuter my pet?  How about descenting?
         Declawing?
   <4.4> How do I train my pet not to nip?
   <4.5> I'm having problems litter-training my ferret.  What should I
         be doing?
   <4.6> Any suggestions on bathing, cleaning ears, and clipping nails?
   <4.7> Can I teach my ferret tricks?  How?
   <4.8> Do ferrets travel well?

5. *** Things ferrets say and do ***

   <5.1> Ferrets don't purr, so how do I know if mine likes something?
   <5.2> My ferret trembles a lot.  Is that normal?
   <5.3> Help!  My ferret is going bald!
   <5.4> Is he really just asleep?
   <5.5> What does such-and-such a noise mean?
   <5.6> What games do ferrets like to play?
   <5.7> What else should I probably not worry about?

6. *** Problems to watch for and related information ***

   <6.1> What warning signs of disease should I watch for?
   <6.2> What are some of the more common diseases in ferrets?
   <6.3> How did I get fleas in my home?  How can I get rid of them?

7. *** Where to get more information ***

   <7.1> How can I find a ferret breeder/contact/shelter in my area?
   <7.2> How do I join the Ferret Mailing list?
   <7.3> Is there any other information available on-line?
   <7.4> What are some of the books available?

8. *** Revision history of this file ***

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0. *** About this FAQ ***

------------------------------

Subject: <0.1> Notes on formatting

The answers in this file are given in a "digest format" which should
make it easier for you to scan through it for the information you want.
Each question begins with a line of hyphens, followed by its number and
the question itself, as given in the Table of Contents above.  In many
newsreaders, including rn, trn, and strn, you can jump from one
question to the next by hitting CONTROL-G.  You can also look for a
particular answer by searching for its number or for words from the
question.

Cross-references to other questions are in square brackets; for
example, [1.2] means that more information may be found in section
1.2.

------------------------------

Subject: <0.2> Where to get this file

This FAQ is posted monthly to the rec.pets and news.answers
newsgroups.  It is available by anonymous FTP:
  ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/news.answers/pet-ferret-faq/general
(that is, ftp to rtfm.mit.edu and get the indicated file).

If you do not have access to FTP, you can request the file by mail by
sending a message to listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu with the single line (in
the body of the message):
GET FERRET ANSWERS 

You can also "subscribe" to the FAQ, so that you receive a new copy
each time it is updated.  Send a message to listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu
with the line:
AFD ADD FERRET ANSWERS

If all else fails, send me (pgreene@optics.rochester.edu) email
and I'll send you a copy.

------------------------------

Subject: <0.3> Goal of this FAQ

A number of people have begun work on comprehensive discussions of all
sorts of ferret behavior, medical problems, and advice.  This FAQ is
not intended to replace any of those.  However, there seems to be a
need for an "intro" FAQ which covers many of the basic questions in a
fairly light way.  That is, this is intended to be a FAQ in the purest
sense of the term: a document to answer questions which keep coming up
in the newsgroups and Ferret Mailing List, rather than a comprehensive
guide to ferret ownership. If you're relatively new to ferrets, the
idea is that you'll read this guide (or one like it) first, then go on
to the more detailed guides.

------------------------------

Subject: <0.4> Credits

Contributions of individual respondents are marked as such and
indented.  Other sections were either written by me (Pamela Greene
[pgreene@optics.rochester.edu]) or compiled from a number of
contributions.

Many thanks to the following people who contributed responses,
comments, and corrections: Sukie Crandall, Todd Cromwell, Ann Davis,
James Garriss, Nancy Hartman, Arlyn Kerr, Chris Lewis, Linda Mooring,
Rochelle Newman, Marilee Warner, and special thanks to Dr. Bruce
Williams, DVM for all his efforts on behalf of the members of the
Ferret Mailing List and all "ferret friends".

------------------------------

Subject: <0.5> Copyright and redistribution information

This compilation is copyright 1994 by Pamela L. Greene.  It may be
freely distributed by electronic, paper, or other means, provided that
it is distributed in its entirety, including this notice, and that no
fee is charged apart from the actual costs of distribution.
(For-profit service providers such as Compuserve and America Online
are granted permission to distribute the file provided that no
additional fee beyond standard connection-time charges is levied.)

Those portions of this file written by others remain the property of
their respective authors.

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1. *** Introduction to ferrets ***

------------------------------

Subject: <1.1> What are ferrets?  Should I get one?  What's good and
               bad about them as pets?

Ferrets are domestic animals, cousins of weasels, skunks and otters.
They are friendly and make excellent pets.  If you've never met one
before, the easiest way to think of them is somewhere between cats and
dogs in personality, but rather smaller.  Some are cuddly, others more
independent; they vary a lot, just like other pets.

Ferrets are a lot of fun.  They are very playful, with each other and
with you, and they don't lose that playfulness as they get older.  A
ferret -- or better, two or more -- can be a very entertaining
companion.  They are smarter than cats and dogs, or at least they act
it.  They are also very inquisitive and remarkably determined, which
is part of their charm but can also be a bit of a bother.

They can be trained to use a litter box and to do tricks, and most of
them love to go places with you, riding on a shoulder or in a bag.
They sleep a lot, and they don't particularly mind staying in small
places (a cage, for instance, or a shoulder bag) temporarily, although
they need to run around and play for at least a couple of hours a day.
A "single" ferret won't be terribly lonely, although the fun of
watching two or three playing together is easily worth the small extra
trouble [2.2].

Ferrets have lots of good points as pets, but there are some negatives
as well.  Like kittens and puppies, they require a fair amount of care
and training at first [4.4, 4.5].  Although most ferrets get along
reasonably well with cats and dogs, it's not guaranteed, so if you
have large, aggressive pets (particularly dogs of breeds commonly used
for hunting), keep that in mind.  Likewise, small children and ferrets
are both very excitable, and the combination might be too much [1.5].

Finally, the importance of ferretproofing must be emphasized.  Ferrets
are less destructive than cats, but they love to get into EVERYTHING,
so if you keep them loose you'll need to make sure they can't hurt
themselves or your possessions [4.1]. They love to steal small (and
not so small!)  objects and stash them under chairs and behind
furniture.  They like to chew on spongy, springy things, which must be
kept out of reach or they'll swallow bits.  Accessible boxes, bags,
and trash cans will be crawled in, and houseplants within reach are
liable to lose all their dirt to joyful digging.  Finally, many
ferrets tend to scratch at the carpet.  Naturally, these traits vary
from one ferret to another, but they're all pretty common.  If you're
not willing to take the necessary time to protect your property and
your pet, a ferret may not be for you.

------------------------------

Subject: <1.2> Are ferrets wild animals?  Why are there ferret permits
        and FFZs?

Domestic pet ferrets, Mustela putorius furo, are not wild animals.
They were first domesticated by the Egyptians around 3000 B.C.  If
yours got free it would not survive; it would likely die of
dehydration or starvation within a few days.  Unlike cats and dogs,
ferrets aren't even large enough to push over garbage cans and
scavenge.

In the past, and some still today, domestic ferrets were used as
hunting animals to catch rabbits and rodents.  The ferrets weren't
supposed to kill the prey, they just chased them out of their holes
and the farmers (hunters) killed them.  This practice is now illegal
in most, if not all, of the U.S. and Canada.

Most of the misconceptions regarding domestic ferrets probably come
from confusing them with their cousins the North American Black-Footed
Ferrets, Mustela nigripes.  Black-footed ferrets (BFFs) are wild
remote relatives of the domestic ferret.  They live mainly in Wyoming
and neighboring states, and they are an endangered species.  However,
despite quite similar appearances, the BFF is very unlikely to be an
ancestor of the domestic ferret, since the latter were first
domesticated in Egypt and only brought to North America comparatively
recently.  Domestic ferrets are generally believed to be descended
from the European polecat.

Some people have also compared, or confused, domestic ferrets with
weasels, which is rather like comparing a pet dog to a bear; or with
mongooses, which is more like comparing a cat and a squirrel.  Neither
gives much useful information.

States, counties, and municipalities outlaw or restrict ferrets for a
variety of reasons, but by far the most common is the mistaken belief
that they're wild animals and should be treated in the same way as
squirrels or raccoons.  In the face of overwhelming evidence, many of
these areas are being persuaded to change their outdated regulations
[2.3].

------------------------------

Subject: <1.3> What's the average ferret lifespan?

Ferrets live an average of 6-10 years, barring accidents.

------------------------------

Subject: <1.4> I'm allergic to cats.  Will I be allergic to ferrets?

There's really no way to tell.  You could be highly allergic to some
other animal and have no problems at all with ferrets.  If you think
you might be allergic, visit a pet store, breeder or friend who has
one and check.  I've lost the note, but one person wrote me to say she
(he?) was allergic only to intact males, so you may want to try
contact with females or neutered males as well.  Also note that some
people are allergic to the perfumes pet stores often put on animals,
but not to the animals themselves.

------------------------------

Subject: <1.5> What's this I hear about ferrets attacking babies?

There are a lot of stories floating around about this, some more true
than others.  Ferrets are unfamiliar to most people, so it's easier
for them to make sweeping statements on the basis of a tiny amount of
information.  Some of the reports are simply rumor, or the result of
confusing another animal with a ferret.  Others are based in fact, but
omit important information (for instance, that the child and pets had
clearly been neglected or abused prior to the attack).  Still others
are unfortunately true.

However, plenty of children have been attacked and even killed by dogs
and cats.  The number of people injured by ferrets each year is a tiny
fraction of the number wounded or killed by dogs.  People don't claim
that all dogs and cats are too dangerous for pets, but rather that
more responsible parenting and pet ownership is needed.

It is definitely necessary to monitor interactions between young
children and ANY pets closely, and to make sure children know the
proper way to handle pets.  A living creature needs, and deserves, to
be treated with more care than a toy.  Ferrets in particular love to
pounce and wrestle when they play, which may frighten children, and
children tend to play rather roughly, which may prompt a more vigorous
response from an active ferret than from a typical cat.

According to Chris Lewis, moderator of the Ferret Mailing List [7.2]: 

    The FML has carried confirmed reports of two, possibly three,
    cases where an animal identified as a "ferret" has seriously
    injured, and in one case, I believe, killed, infants.  One in the
    UK, and one or two in the US.  In none of these cases has it been
    proven that the animal was a ferret - particularly in the UK, it
    is quite possible that the animal was actually an European polecat
    which are raised for fur and sometimes for hunting (in the UK).
    And in each case gross child and animal abuse is well documented.
    But it's important to remember, that even the most pessimistic
    statistics on ferrets show that a ferret is about a thousand times
    *less* likely to cause injury than a dog.  Indeed, every year
    there are hundreds of very serious or fatal dog attacks in the US
    alone.  Worst case statistics show approximately 12 ferret attacks
    ever recorded in the US.

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds: 

    I can say from personal experience that there are many, many more
    bite incidents with the household dog or cat, and that either of
    these species tend to do a lot more damage.  I have seen children
    require over a hundred facial stitches from getting between the
    dog and its food, but never anything like this with a ferret.  But
    I've also been nailed by my share of ferrets too.

    Personally, I don't recommend ferrets for people with children
    under 6 or 7 - either the child or the ferret ends up getting
    hurt.

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2. *** Getting a pet ferret ***

------------------------------

Subject: <2.1> Which color is the best?  Male or female?  What age?

As with people, a ferret's inherent personality is more important than
color or gender.  Nevertheless, there is some thought that cinnamon
ferrets tend to be more docile than other colors, probably because
it's a recent addition to the list of colors, so most of them have
been bred from long-time pet stock.  Basically, though, choose the
color according to your own preference.

There's no consistent personality difference between a (neutered) male
and a female.  Males are generally considerably larger, around 18" and
3-5 pounds (in the US; European-bred ferrets differ a bit) compared to
15" and 1-3 pounds for females.  Males' heads are usually wider, which
can give them a more cat-like appearance.  If you're getting an
unneutered ferret, bear in mind that the cost to spay a female can be
higher than the cost to neuter a male.  (Unless you're specifically
planning to breed them, you will NEED to "alter" your pets [4.3].)

There are two contradictory opinions regarding what age ferret is best
for a new owner.  Adults tend to be a bit calmer and may already be
litter- and nip- trained [4.4, 4.5], but they are larger and may have
acquired bad habits, too.  Kits are very cute, and their small size
and (for a young kit) sleepiness can be less intimidating for a new
owner, but they require a little more care and training and will
become very active before too long. 

------------------------------

Subject: <2.2> How many should I get?  All at once, or one at a time?

Ferrets don't need other ferrets to be happy, but if you won't be
around much, two or more will keep each other company.  They'll also
be more fun, but more responsibility.  Many people have three, five or
more ferrets, which may be more fun than you can take. :-)

I'd recommend getting one at first, so you can get to know it, and it
you.  There's some advantage to only having to train one at a time,
too.  I'd suggest at least a few months between them, if you're going
to get several, although it's certainly not necessary.  If you decide
you want more later, you can always get another; they usually get
along just fine [2.6].  There's no problem mixing (neutered) ferrets
of either gender in any combination.

------------------------------

Subject: <2.3> Do I need a license or permit?  How do I find out?

Depending on where you live, ferrets may be completely unregulated,
require a license to breed but not to own, require a permit to own, or
be entirely illegal.  This varies by state, county, and city.  At the
moment, the states of California, Massachusetts, Michigan and Hawaii
are FFZs (ferret-free zones; i.e., places where ferrets are illegal),
as are the District of Columbia, New York City, St. Paul (MN), Salt
Lake City (UT), and various other towns and counties throughout the
U.S. and Canada.  This list is by no means complete, so check locally
before you get a ferret.

You can find out about your town by calling the local Wildlife
Department or Fish and Game Department, the humane society, or
veterinarians (recommended in that order).  Note that some pet stores
in FFZs sell ferrets anyway, so the presence of one in your corner
store may not be any indication of their legality, and I wouldn't
necessarily trust the pet store to be honest about local laws.

------------------------------

Subject: <2.4> Where can I get a pet ferret?  How do I choose a "good" one?

Many pet stores have ferrets, and there are often ads in the newspaper
from small breeders [7.1] with kits to sell or from people who want to
sell older ferrets.  In any case, look for bright, clear eyes, healthy
skin and whiskers, soft coat, and a curious, alert attitude.  You
can't tell just how a kit's colorings will turn out, but if you watch
and handle a group for a while you can tell a surprising amount about
their personalities.  Young kits will generally be pretty sleepy and
uncoordinated, but they'll grow out of that soon enough.

You can often find "rescue" ferrets at the local animal shelter, and
there are shelters specifically for ferrets scattered around the
country as well [7.1].  This may not be the best choice for a new
owner, though, since rescue ferrets may have health or behavioral
problems.  (Many of them are healthy and loving, but if you've never
dealt with any ferrets before you may not want to take the chance.)

------------------------------

Subject: <2.5> What do these little blue dots in my kit's ear mean?
               What's the deal with Marshall Farms?

If your ferret has two blue dots tattooed in his right ear, chances
are he's from Marshall Farms, a large breeder located in Western New
York.  Marshall Farms (MF) has been the subject of some controversy
because they sell ferrets to laboratories as well as for pets.  Some
people feel that MF's efforts to produce genetically stable ferrets
for lab use has resulted in their pets being genetically less healthy,
but this has not been conclusively established.

Several other breeders also mark dots in their kits' ears, so a
tattooed ferret may not be from MF.  Regardless, it is the opinion of
most ferret lovers that Marshall Farms ferrets are no less deserving
of good homes and love than their unmarked kin, whatever your opinions
about the establishment that bred them.

------------------------------

Subject: <2.6> I just got another ferret.  How can I introduce him/her
               to my old one(s) with the least trouble?

Ferret play can look pretty rough, especially the kinds of dominance
"arguments" an established ferret is likely to have with a new one.
Generally ferrets won't actually injure each other, but careful
supervision is required at first.  To prevent biting, you can try
spraying Bitter Apple [3.1] on the new ferret.  Keeping the new ferret
separated, but in sight/smell of the old one (e.g., in a neighboring
cage) can help speed familiarity, as can putting the new pet in the
old one's cage or sleeping area while the other one's not there.
Within a week or two they should get along all right and can share a
cage, food dish, and water bottle.  Of course, extreme cases do exist,
but the longest I've read about new-ferret problems lasting is three
months.

------------------------------

Subject: <2.7> How can I introduce my ferret to my (dog/cat/bird/
               fish/rabbit/etc.) with the least trouble?

Most ferrets don't get along with birds, fish, rabbits, rodents,
lizards, and the like, though there are some exceptions.  For a dog or
cat, introduce them SLOWLY.  For the first week or so, hold both
animals and just let them smell each other a few times a day.  Over
the next week or two, gradually give each animal a bit more freedom,
watching them closely, until they're used to each other.  Once you're
convinced that they're used to each other and get along all right, let
them interact freely, but supervise them for a while to be sure.

It's generally believed that ferrets get along with cats better if
they're introduced when the cat is still a kitten and is more willing
to play.  

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3. *** Things you'll need *** 

------------------------------

Subject: <3.1> What will I need to take care of my new ferret?

You will need:

- ferret food [3.4]
- a food dish (one hard to tip)
- a water dish (one hard to tip) or water bottle (see below)
- litter boxes (see below)
- litter [3.7]
- bedding [3.2, 3.3]
- a cage [3.2]
- ferret shampoo (baby shampoo works fine too)
- a collar and a little bell [3.8]
- pet claw clippers (large human-nail clippers work fine too)
- toys (ferretproofed) [3.9]
- a veterinarian, preferably one familiar with ferrets
- Linatone or Ferretone, if you can find them (see below and [3.5])
- Bitter Apple or something similar (see below)
- a box or basket to be a bedroom [3.2]
- a harness and leash (optional) (see below)

Ferretone and Linatone are similar vitamin supplements [3.5] that
nearly every ferret loves [3.6].  Bitter Apple is a bad-tasting liquid
or paste intended to stop pets from chewing things.  You may want an
H-type harness and a leash, and you will almost certainly need more
than one litter pan, particularly if you have a large home.

I've found a water bottle to be much more convenient than a water
dish, since ferrets seem to love to play in, and tip over, water
bowls.  Small-size cat litter pans work fine, and for a travel cage or
shoulder bag you can use a Rubbermaid-type plastic container intended
for bread or ice cream (about 6 X 9 X 5 inches).  Make sure the sides
of the pan are at least 4 inches high, since ferrets habitually back
into corners to deposit their wastes and you don't want messes over
the sides of the pan.  However, one side of the pan should be no more
than an inch or two high, so your ferret can get in and out easily.
This is especially true for a young kit.

------------------------------

Subject: <3.2> Do I need a cage?  How should I set it up?

Many people keep their ferrets in a cage or very well-ferretproofed
[4.1] room whenever they can't be supervised.  This drastically
reduces the risks of digestive-tract blockages from swallowing
indigestible objects [6.1, 6.2], injury, and escape.  However, even if
you plan to let your ferrets have the run of the house at all times,
you'll want a cage at first for training [4.4, 4.5] as well as for
temporary use.

Aquarium tanks have enjoyed a certain popularity as ferret cages, but
I think overall wire-mesh cages are better.  Tanks are easier to
clean, but they don't provide much ventilation at the bottom, and your
ferret may feel somewhat isolated from whatever's going on in the
room.  Besides, a nice, big aquarium isn't exactly cheap.

If you plan to keep your ferret caged whenever you're not home, and
you'll be gone most of the day, a generous cage size is about 2 X 3
feet and 2 feet high (60 X 100 X 60 cm).  A second or third ferret
could share that size cage.  If you'll only be using the cage
temporarily, such as when you're vacuuming or taking your pet on a
vacation [4.8], 1 X 2 X 1 feet (30 X 60 X 30 cm) is sufficient for one
or two ferrets, perhaps three.  For trips around town [4.8], a
shoulder or duffel bag equipped with a litter pan and mesh window
works well.

In the cage, you'll want some sort of "bedroom" for your pet.  A
ferret won't be very happy sleeping on the open floor of a cage, even
on (or, more likely, under) a towel, but any small cardboard box or
basket works well as a bedroom.  Old towels make excellent bedding
[3.3], as long as they aren't too easily chewed to bits.

Other than food, water, a litter pan, bedding, and a bedroom, what you
put in your ferret's cage is largely up to you.  Hammocks made from
old jeans or shirts and a set of metal eyelets are very popular for
both napping and playing, and ramps, ledges, tunnels, and toys [3.9]
will also be enjoyed.  Just be sure nothing you put in your ferret's
cage could hurt him, whether by catching a toe, being swallowed, or
some other way.  Also be sure your cage door fastens securely, perhaps
even with a small lock, because ferrets can be very determined and
rather intelligent escape artists.

------------------------------

Subject: <3.3> The pet store uses wood shavings as bedding.  Should I?

In short, no.  Many pet stores and some breeders use cedar or pine
shavings as bedding/cage lining for their ferrets, but it is not
recommended.  Cedar in particular has been associated with allergies
and respiratory problems in various animals, including, for example,
humans and rabbits, but pine and other woods also produce a fair
amount of dust and such which isn't very good to breathe.  Why take
the chance?

Furthermore, wood shavings are completely unnecessary.  Ferrets are
more like cats than hamsters: they'll be quite happy with a clean
towel or old T-shirt placed in a small "bedroom box" or basket for
sleeping.  Sure, some pet stores and breeders use shavings, but they
don't really have the option of using towels.

------------------------------

Subject: <3.4> What should I feed my ferret?

Most people feed their ferrets high-quality cat food, such as Iams,
Science Diet, or ProPlan.  High-quality food may cost a bit more, but
your pet will eat a lot less and be much healthier.  Besides, we've
found that an 8-pound bag of dry food (usually $10-$15) lasts two
ferrets a few months, so the cost of feeding them even high-quality
food is not very great.

The key ingredient is protein, specifically animal protein, since
ferrets' short digestive cycles prevent them from getting enough
sustenance from vegetable proteins.  The food needs to have at least
32% protein, and animal protein should be listed first in the
ingredients.

Because of this protein requirement, ferrets up to three or four years
old should get kitten or "growth" foods.  Older ferrets can have
kidney problems from too much protein, though, so they should be
switched to the cat versions.

Soft cat food is not good for ferrets, partly because it generally
contains much less protein than the dry kind and partly because it
isn't hard enough to rub plaque off their teeth and can lead to tooth
decay.  However, very young kits and those recovering from illness or
surgery may need their food moistened with water for a week or two.
Note that moistened food spoils much more quickly than the same food
left dry, so dump out leftovers every day.

Dog food is NOT acceptable, as it lacks some nutrients ferrets (and
cats) need.  Among other things, ferrets and cats both need taurine,
which (according to the Iams label) is found naturally in poultry;
many cat and ferret foods supplement it as well.

Several kinds of food meant specifically for ferrets also exist,
including Purina Ferret Chow and Kaytee Ferret Food.  Ferrets do just
fine on cat food, though, and in my experience they like it better
than ferret food.

Unless your ferret is overweight, you can just keep her bowl full and
let her eat as much as she wants.  

In general, feeding your pet a variety of foods, rather than just one
brand, is probably a good idea.  Ferrets are known to be finicky
eaters, and if the brand you've been using is suddenly unavailable,
you may run into problems if it's all your pets will recognize as
edible.  To switch from brand A to brand B, start mixing them before
you run out of A.  Add B a little at a time until they're getting half
each, then phase out A.  (See questions [3.5] and [3.6] for comments
on supplements, fruits, vegetables, and treats.)

------------------------------

Subject: <3.5> Should I give my ferret any supplements?

Ferretone and Linatone are two popular vitamin supplements.  They are
also one of the most common treats, since nearly every ferret loves
them.  They're very similar and can be used interchangeably, although
their exact composition is a bit different.  The problem is, both of
these contain vitamin A, which can be very harmful or even fatal in
excess.  No more than a few drops of either Ferretone or Linatone a
day is recommended, and it's not thought to be necessary to give them
any at all if you're using a good food.  Signs of vitamin A overdose
include hair loss and a dull coat.

Similarly, many people give their ferrets a small amount of a cat
hairball remedy such as Laxatone or Petromalt on a regular basis.
This can help them pass the styrofoam, rubber bands, and such that
they seem to love to eat, as well as helping to prevent hairballs from
fur swallowed during grooming.  Even better, most ferrets seem to
think of this as a wonderful treat, too.  As with all treats and
supplements, give them only in moderation; you can estimate how much
by taking the recommended cat dosage and adjusting for ferrets'
smaller weights.

------------------------------

Subject: <3.6> What are good treats?

Most ferrets also enjoy some fruits and vegetables.  Although they're
not necessary for good nutrition if you're feeding your pets a
high-quality cat food, small amounts of these won't hurt.  Just be
sure you don't fill your ferret up on fruit, since he'll need to eat
his regular food to get the required protein.  Too much of nearly
anything can be harmful, so try to vary your treats.

Although most ferrets love milk and ice cream, they shouldn't be
allowed to have much.  This is especially true for young kits, since
the lactose in cow's milk gives ferrets diarrhea, which can easily
cause them to become dehydrated.  I'm told that goat's milk, available
in some pet stores, is okay, but I haven't seen any verification of
this.

Too much fiber can also give ferrets diarrhea, so limit raisins,
bananas, prunes, oatmeal, apples, and anything with bran in it.
Sugary treats aren't good for them either, since they can cause to
dental problems and may also contribute to the development of
diabetes.

Be very careful with chocolate.  Most ferrets like it, but the
xanthines found in it are strong stimulants and can be dangerous to
them.  It's not recommended as a treat.

Some popular suggestions: a slice of banana (mashed, so it's more
digestible), raisins, bits of pear, peppermint (small licks),
freeze-dried liver (sold as cat treats), Pounce cat treats, puffed
rice cakes, green beans, wheat crackers...  Try feeding your ferret
pretty much anything, in small pieces.  You never know what yours will
consider a fabulous treat.  I've heard of ferrets going wild for
everything from spaghetti to blueberries.

------------------------------

Subject: <3.7> What kind of litter should I use?

Some people have had problems with the clumping varieties of litter,
due to some ferrets' habits of sniffing at their litter corners and
dragging their rumps across the litter when done using it.  The litter
can get into their noses or rectums, where it clumps and causes
problems.  You may not want to take the chance.

Likewise, cedar shavings are not recommended, for the same reasons
that they don't make good bedding [3.3].

Other than that, any kind of litter meant for cats is okay for
ferrets.  You and your ferret may prefer one to another, since they
all control or cover odors differently, track more or less dust, cost
more or less, and so forth.  Some people even use alfalfa pellets
(rabbit food), which is often cheaper than cat litter but generally
doesn't cover odor as well.  If your pet is used to one and you
switch, it may take a while for him to connect the scent of the new
litter with where he's supposed to go.

------------------------------

Subject: <3.8> What kind of collar/bell/tag should I use?

Depending on your ferret, either a nylon kitten collar, a thin, flat
leather puppy collar, or a piece of ball chain will work well.  The
problem you may run into for a nylon collar is that some ferrets will
scratch at it, which pulls the nylon threads and can tighten the
collar dangerously.

For either of the collars, you may need to make an extra hole, then
trim off the extra length and (for nylon) melt the end together.  Be
sure to leave enough to go through the little ring after it's buckled.
For the ball chain (the kind made for light-pulls or to lift the
stopper in a toilet), just snip it to the proper length.

We've never had any problems with either of our ferrets getting hurt
by catching their collars in anything, but we make sure to leave them
loose enough that the furry snakes can slip out if they happen to get
caught.  In fact, the easiest way we've found to get the collars on is
to fasten them, then shove them over the ferrets' heads while
occupying them with Ferretone.

A small cat bell and small-size plastic tag have worked well for us on
a kit as young as 9 weeks.  I strongly suggest getting the S-shaped
hook for the tag rather than the split ring, since the rings have a
tendency to loosen.  Twice one of our ferrets got hers caught in a
sweater or blanket -- which both frightened her and unraveled the item
she was frantically rolling in before she pulled out of the collar.
For a nylon or leather collar, you'll probably want to poke the S-hook
directly through the collar and put the bell and tag on the same hook,
though, since attaching them to the ring on the collar makes them hang
down far enough to drag on the ground.

Neither of our slinkies seems to mind wearing a collar, although the
first time we put it on our older pet she spent 15 minutes trying to
convince us she was dying and then the next hour playing with the
jingly toy that followed her wherever she went.

In short, I strongly recommend tags and bells for all ferrets.  Ours
have never gotten out, but even just around the house it gives
enormous peace of mind to be able to tell where they are!

------------------------------

Subject: <3.9> Any suggestions on toys?

Cat toys work well for ferrets, though you need to be sure they don't
have any small, removable parts or foam stuffing [6.2].  Most ferrets
are rather harder on toys than a cat would be, so choose accordingly.
Plastic balls, with or without bells, work well if they are not easily
broken or swallowed (the little "webbed" ones break too easily).  Soft
vinyl rubber is okay, but not the spongy kind -- it's too easily
shredded and swallowed.  For hard rubber toys, be sure they can't get
stuck in your ferret's mouth, and take them away when they start to
crack.  Cat squeaky toys are good if they're tough enough to stand up
to chewing and easily squeaked.  Catnip won't hurt ferrets, but it
doesn't affect them like it does cats.

Most ferrets enjoy playing in a hammock made from a piece of cloth and
some metal eyelets, and the leg from an old pair of jeans will be fun
to crawl through or nap in.  For other toys, try umbrellas, bathrobe
belts, tennis balls, golf balls, large unshelled nuts (rinsed to wash
off any pesticides), or old socks with bells rolled up in them.
Plastic shopping bags are popular, but watch to be sure your pets
don't suffocate or eat the plastic.  Carpet-roll tubes and tunnels
made of plastic pipe are popular too.  

An excellent, inexpensive toy is a piece of plastic dryer hose about
4" (10 cm) in diameter.  Wrap any loose wire ends.  Be sure that your
real dryer hose is out of reach (or get a metal one), since you're
showing your pets that dryer hoses are great fun to crawl through.

No matter what you decide your ferret's toys are, he or she will
almost undoubtedly choose some household items you never expected, as
well.  Keep anything that would be damaged with a little chewing, or
that might hurt your pet, well out of reach.  Unfortunately, digging
up houseplants is also enormous fun to a ferret; see question [4.1]
for advice on preventing this.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

4. *** Basic ferret care and training ***

------------------------------

Subject: <4.1> How can I best ferretproof my home?

Ferretproofing a home basically involves blocking off all the holes
around your baseboards, removing anything spongy from reach, moving
fragile items out of the way, and making sure your closets and
cabinets close securely.  Ferrets love to worm their way into any
little hole (as small as 2 X 2 inches, or smaller for kits and some
adults), which can be very bad if the hole in question is under a
refrigerator or other appliance, into a wall, or outside.  Crawl
around on your stomach to look for holes near the floor, especially in
the kitchen and laundry area.  Even holes inside cabinets (which are
particularly common in apartments, where plumbers are often rather
sloppy) should be blocked, just in case.  Also watch out for heaters
or furnace ducts.  You can block openings with wood or wire mesh, and
at least one Ferret Mailing List recipient had good luck with aluminum
foil, since most ferrets don't like to chew it.

Many ferrets are good climbers and jumpers.  They can get onto a sofa,
into a trash can, onto the third shelf of a set of bookcases, into a
bathtub, into the opening on the back of a stereo speaker, or over the
gate you thought would keep them in the spare room (a two-foot barrier
will probably do the job).  They can also open cabinets, unzip
backpacks, and climb into some drawers from underneath.

Apart from obvious dangers such as electrical cords (which ferrets
don't, generally, like to chew) and bottles of household cleaners and
chemicals (which they do like to drink), be particularly careful with
sponges, erasers, shoe insoles, Silly Putty, foam rubber (even inside
a cushion or mattress), styrofoam, insulation, rubber door stoppers,
and anything else spongy or springy.  Ferrets love to chew on that
kind of thing, and swallowed bits can cause intestinal blockages
[6.2].  Also be aware that ferrets like to dig in and possibly chew on
houseplants, and some common ones are quite poisonous.

Plants can be protected from digging (but not chewing) by putting
large rocks or metal mesh over the tops of their pots.  If your ferret
claws at the carpet, try putting down a piece of plastic carpet
protector.

Finally, once your home is done, bear in mind that your couch cushions
and throw rugs may be hiding napping ferrets.  Look before you sit!

------------------------------

Subject: <4.2> What vaccinations will my ferret need, and when?

According to Nancy Hartman:
     IMRAB rabies vaccine - yearly, starting at about 6 months old.
     (This is the same rabies vaccine as is used for dogs and cats;
     your vet should have it on hand.)

     Fervac-D or Fromm-D canine distemper vaccine - see below.
     (Fervac-D is ferret specific, so many vets may not carry it.
     Fromm-D is commonly used for dogs.)  Kits should be vaccinated at
     8 weeks, 11 weeks, and 14 weeks.  But they should have at *least*
     a series of two shots, three weeks apart, with the last one when
     the ferret is older than 14 weeks.  Then 1 booster shot yearly.
     Note: although rabies is the more publicized of the two, the
     distemper shot is MUCH more important for your ferret's health.

     [If you can't get the ferret-specific distemper vaccine, use a
     vaccine for canine distemper which is a KILLED VIRUS and was NOT
     cultured in ferret tissue.]

     Adult ferrets who have never been vaccinated, the shots are out
     of date, or the ferret is of unknown vaccination status, should
     receive a series of two [distemper] vaccinations, three weeks
     apart, then booster shot yearly

     Also be advised that most states do not recognize the rabies
     vaccine for ferrets.  The "official" studies on shedding time
     have yet to be done.  So, even if vaccinated, your ferret will be
     destroyed if someone reports to the authorities that they were
     bitten (scratched, looked at cross-eyed) by him/her.  BUT, the
     vaccination will most likely keep the person from reporting the
     ferret in the first place.  And, it will protect your ferrets
     from getting rabies on the chance that they are bitten by a rabid
     animal.

Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, adds: 
     An extra distemper shot, in cases where a vaccination history is
     not known, will not hurt a ferret.  Vaccinations is one area in
     which it is better to be safe than sorry.

------------------------------

Subject: <4.3> Do I need to spay/neuter my pet?  How about descenting?
               Declawing?

Ferrets intended as pets must be neutered or spayed. Neutering
drastically reduces the odor of a male, prevents him from marking his
territory with smelly slime, and makes him less aggressive (males in
season may kill other ferrets, even females).  Spaying saves a
female's life, since once she goes into heat she will need to be bred
or she will almost certainly die of anemia.  However, many people
disagree with the common practice of performing the surgery at a very
early age, and prefer to wait until the ferret is at least six months
old.  It should be done before the first time the ferret would go into
heat, but apart from that there's no rush.

There's debate about whether descenting ferrets is necessary or
useful, and some belief that it's harmful.  It's bad for a ferret's
health to descent it before 6 or 7 weeks of age, and it may be
somewhat harmful when done at any age.  Many people feel that the
procedure accomplishes no purpose; that is, that neutered ferrets who
aren't spraying smell the same whether or not they've been descented.
Note that, like a skunk, a ferret will use its scent if it's greatly
distressed or feeling amorous, but ferrets can't spray their scent as
effectively as a skunk.  Their scent also isn't as bad as a skunk's,
and I'm told it dissipates in 15 minutes or so.

Most pet stores sell neutered and descented kits.  Many breeders sell
kits which have been neutered but not descented.

Ferrets can't be declawed; it would cripple them.

------------------------------

Subject: <4.4> How do I train my pet not to nip?

Like kittens and puppies, ferret kits must be taught not to nip.  A
ferret which has been bred to be a pet shouldn't be vicious or bite,
but ferret play does include mock combat, and young ones won't know
how hard they can put their teeth on you without hurting you.  A
playing ferret may run at you with his mouth open or even put his
teeth on your hand, but if he presses down hard enough to hurt, you
need to discipline him.  Just remember, ferrets aren't malicious, they
just need to learn what behavior is acceptable.

Positive reinforcement (giving treats [3.6]) generally works better
than punishment.  Similarly, don't set the ferret down when he
struggles and nips -- you'll be teaching him that that's the way to
get what he wants.

Flicking the ferret's nose while his teeth are on you is a pretty
popular form of discipline; but if it doesn't work, you'll end up
doing it too often, which will make your ferret associate bad things
with you.  There are also several alternatives:

- Confining the misbehaving ferret to a cage [3.2] and ignoring him
for a few minutes can be effective, especially if there's another
ferret wandering around conspicuously having fun.

- You can cover your hands with Bitter Apple, either the spray or the
paste, so nipping tastes bad.

- Those ferrets who go limp when scruffed generally hate it.  A more
extreme measure would be to gently shake the ferret while he's
hanging in midair.  You can also cover his face with your hand, which
he probably won't like.

------------------------------

Subject: <4.5> I'm having problems litter-training my ferret.  What
               should I be doing?

Start your ferret out in a small area, perhaps his cage [3.2], and
expand his space gradually as he becomes better trained.  Keep a
little dirty litter in his pan at first, to mark it as a bathroom and
to deter him from digging in it.  Don't let it get too dirty, though;
some ferrets can be pretty finicky about their pans.  Whenever you
notice your ferret backing into a pan, give him a little treat [3.6]
and lots of praise as he comes out.  Even if he didn't actually use
it, it'll still reinforce the idea.

Ferrets generally use their pans within fifteen minutes of waking up,
so don't let yours out of his cage until he at least sniffs the pan to
show he's thought about it.  When he's out running around for
playtime, keep a close eye on him, and put him in his litter pan every
half hour or so, or whenever you see him "pick up a magazine and start
to back into a corner" (as one FML subscriber put it).  Positive
reinforcement (treats and praise) are usually much more effective than
any punishment, but if you need one, use cage time, and don't let him
out until he backs into the pan.

If your ferret has a favorite corner, you have two choices.  You could
put a pan (or newspaper, if it's a tight spot) in it; ferrets have
short legs and attention spans, so you'll probably need several pans
around your home anyway.  Otherwise, you can try putting a crumpled
towel in the corner, making it look more like a potential napping
spot than a latrine.

"Accident" corners should be cleaned with bleach or another
bad-smelling disinfectant (don't let your ferret onto it 'till it
dries!), specifically so they don't continue to smell like ferret
bathrooms but also as a general deterrent. For the same reason, you
probably shouldn't clean litter pans with bleach, certainly not the
same one you're using as a deterrent elsewhere.

Although almost every ferret can be trained to use a litter pan, there
is individual variation.  Ferrets just aren't as diligent about their
pans as most cats, so there will be an occasional accident.  Even
well-trained ferrets tend to lose track of their litter pans when
they're particularly frightened or excited, or if they're in a new
house or room.  In general you can expect at least a 90% "hit" rate,
though some ferrets just don't catch on as well and some do
considerably better.  At least ferrets are small, so their accidents
are pretty easy to clean up.

------------------------------

Subject: <4.6> Any suggestions on bathing, cleaning ears, and clipping
               nails?

Most people like to bathe their ferrets pretty often, since it can
help keep the odor down and they don't seem to mind it.  Frequent
bathing can cause dry skin, though, especially in winter, so be
careful.  Once every week or two should be okay, but switch to less
often if you have problems. Some ferrets enjoy a bath quite a bit,
swimming around in the tub and diving for the drain plug.

The first step in bathing a ferret (well, after catching her) is to
check her nails and trim them if necessary.  Lie her on your lap, on
her back, her head toward your stomach.  Smear her tummy with
Ferretone and poke her nose at it.  She should be so preoccupied with
licking it up that she doesn't even notice what you're doing to her
feet.  If you have trouble, and a helper, have the helper hold the
ferret by the scruff of the neck and put Ferretone on one of his
fingers.  Scruffing a ferret will generally make her calm down and
possibly even go limp, and if not, the Ferretone should keep her
distracted.

Cut the nail just longer than the pink line inside it.  Place the cut
parallel to where the floor will be when the ferret stands, to prevent
the tip from breaking later.  Be careful not to nick the line or the
toe, since in either case it'll bleed and your ferret will decide nail
clipping is not a good thing. 

Next you should check your pet's ears.  They shouldn't need cleaning
more than once a month at most, but if they seem unduly dirty, dampen
a cotton swab with sweet oil (made for cleaning babies' ears) or
lukewarm water (only if dry skin is not a problem) and gently clean
them.  Hold the swab along the animal's head rather than poking it
into the ear, to avoid injuring the ear.  Yellowish or brownish-red
ear wax is normal, but if you see any black substance your pet
probably has ear mites, which should be taken care of.

There's also a product made for cleaning cats' ears, which you just
squirt in and they shake out.  Your vet should be able to tell you
about it.

Now fill a tub or kitchen sink partway with lukewarm water.  It should
feel comfortable on your wrist.  If you want to let your pet play in
the water, fill a tub just deeper than the ferret is tall, and provide
some sort of support (a box in the tub) in case she gets tired of
swimming.

Finally, bathe the ferret.  Ferret shampoos are available, or no-tears
baby shampoo works fine too.  Wet the ferret completely, either in one
half of a double sink or in a tub.  Lather her from head to tail;
don't worry about her eyes if you're using a no-tears shampoo.  Our
ferrets both start to struggle at this point, which seems to be
because they don't like hanging in midair while being washed.  We let
them put their hind legs on the side of the tub while they're being
washed.  Rinse the ferret thoroughly in clear, warm running water.

Older, sick, or weak ferrets can be gently cleaned using baby oil,
which can also help get gooey things out of fur.

Drying a dripping ferret can be a lot of fun or a real hassle,
depending on your own preference.  I find it's easiest to keep the
ferret in a towel at chest-level, holding her head and torso in one
hand while drying her with the other.  Wearing a terry bathrobe is
helpful here too.  You could also put your ferret on the floor in a
towel and rub her dry, but she'll probably think you're playing a
rowdy game of tousle and try to run away [5.6].  Once you've got her
mostly dry, put her somewhere warm with a dry towel to roll in and
she'll finish the job, although it's been mentioned that a damp ferret
seems to lose all sense of judgment, suddenly thinking that walls,
cage floors, milk cartons, and everything -except- the towel must be
remarkably water-absorbent.  You can also try using a hair dryer on
its coolest setting, but many ferrets won't stand for that.

------------------------------

Subject: <4.7> Can I teach my ferret tricks?  How?

Yes, ferrets are plenty smart enough to learn to sit up, turn around,
roll over, stay on your shoulders or in a hood, and perhaps even walk
on a leash.  To train your ferret to stay on your shoulders, for
instance, stand over a pile or basket of crumpled newspaper, and when
she falls into it, shout, "No!"  The combination of the fall, the
noise, and your shout should persuade her to pay more attention to
staying on.  Give her a treat when she does, and she should learn
quickly.
 
The trick to all of these is getting your pet's attention while you
teach her.  Don't try teaching tricks, or even trying to get a ferret
to perform, in an unexplored area -- it's nearly futile.  

Unlike dogs, ferrets generally won't do a trick for the sheer joy of
it, or simply to please you.  Usually there must be some kind of
reward expected, though that could be anything from a lick of
Ferretone to a bite of apple to a good head-scratching.

------------------------------

Subject: <4.8> Do ferrets travel well?

Around town: Ferrets love going places.  You can fix up a shoulder bag
with a litter pan and space for a water bottle and food dish and carry
them with you wherever they're welcome.

Automobile travel: Car trips don't seem to bother ferrets, although
being closed up in a travel cage may irritate them -- and you, if they
scratch to get out.  Keeping them loose in the car is not recommended,
since they could get under the driver's feet or through some
undetected hole into the engine compartment or onto the road.  You can
use a water bottle in a car, but fasten a deep dish or cup underneath
it, since it will drip, and put down a towel to soak up the inevitable
spills.

Airplane travel: Only a few airlines allow ferrets on board their
planes, in under-seat cat carriers, for an additional charge.
(America West does.  Any others?)  Sending your ferret in the cargo
area is not generally recommended, largely due to problems people have
had with temperature, pressure and general handling of pets who travel
this way.  Several people have been able to sneak their ferrets aboard
aircraft by taking them through the security checks hidden in bulky
coats, then transferring them to a duffel bag in a restroom, but I
have no experience with that.

Hotels: Many hotels allow pets in cages, although it's a good idea to
call ahead and make sure.  Also leave a note to reassure the maids.

Legality: You should also check with the Wildlife Departments of any
areas you'll be passing through or staying in to make sure that
ferrets are allowed, and carry documentation of the vaccines your pets
have had, just in case.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

5. *** Things ferrets say and do ***

------------------------------

Subject: <5.1> Ferrets don't purr, so how do I know if mine likes
               something?

If he stays still for your petting, plays with his toys, grabs the
treat from you, or "chuckles" while playing, he likes it.

------------------------------

Subject: <5.2> My ferret trembles a lot.  Is that normal?

Generally, yes.  Ferrets normally tremble for two reasons.  First,
they often shiver right after waking up, in order to raise their body
temperatures.  Second, they shake or quiver when excited or
frightened.  For a young kit, this could well be all the time, since
everything is new and interesting.  For older ferrets, a bath or even
a good scolding could prompt trembling.

If your ferret's trembling persists with no apparent cause, first make
sure there's no cold draft around.  (Ferrets can live fine outdoors,
with blankets and shade, but indoor lighting can cause their winter
coats not to come in until long after it's gotten cold enough outside
to need one.)  If that's not the problem, check with a vet.

------------------------------

Subject: <5.3> Help!  My ferret is going bald!

Ferrets shed their coats twice a year, in the fall and spring.  The
times for these changes vary somewhat for ferrets kept in indoor
lighting conditions.  Fur will come out by the handful, all over the
ferret, and his coat may look a bit sparse before the new one grows
in.

Otherwise, baldness can be caused by several things.  Poor nutrition,
a severe mite infection, and dry skin are possibilities.  A nearly
bald tail can be caused by stress, and is not uncommon in intact
animals during breeding season.

Finally, baldness is also the most noticeable symptom of adrenal
lesions in ferrets [6.2].  Any unexplained hair loss should be checked
out quickly.  If it begins on the tail and progresses forward,
eventually leaving hair only on the head and extremities, that's
almost certainly the problem.  See a vet immediately.

------------------------------

Subject: <5.4> Is he really just asleep?

In general, ferrets sleep quite a bit, even adults.  A two- to four-
hour playtime followed by a several-hour nap is typical.  Ferrets
sometimes appear to be sleeping with their eyes partly open, and they
sleep very heavily, often not waking even when picked up.  You can
take advantage of this and try to cut their nails while they're
asleep.  It means you have to be especially careful where you walk and
sit, though.

------------------------------

Subject: <5.5> What does such-and-such a noise mean?

Clucking, "dooking", or chuckling: Indicates happiness or excitement.
     Often uttered while playing or exploring a new area.
Occasional sneezes: If you crawled under bookcases and couches, you'd
     sneeze too.  Also, ferrets have a pair of scent glands near their
     chins, and sneezing can be a way of forcing some of the scent out
     so it can be rubbed on something.
Whimpering/whining: Kits, especially, do this as a general excitement
     noise.  It can also be uttered by the loser in a wrestling match.
Hissing: Frustration or anger.
Screeching/loud chittering: Extreme fright or pain.  This is your cue
     that it's time to go rescue your pet from whatever it's gotten
     itself into. It can also be a sign of anger.

------------------------------

Subject: <5.6> What games do ferrets like to play?

Most ferrets enjoy mock combat, chase, tug-o'-war, hide-and-seek, and
so forth, with each other or with you.  Ours love to bounce around on
our fluffy comforter, swat at us from behind the bookcases, and attack
each other through the throw rugs.

If your ferret jumps back and forth in front of you or tugs on your
pants leg, he wants to play.  An appropriate response would be to get
down on your hands and knees and chase him around, or to dangle a
washcloth in front of him and start a tugging game, for instance.

Ferrets like to jump and climb.  They're good at finding complicated
ways up to desks or closet shelves, but not very good at judging
heights.  Be careful about how high your pet can get, since he may try
to jump down.

Ferrets also love to swipe things and drag them into the most
inaccessible location possible.  Protect your keys and wallet.

A happy ferret will "dance," flinging himself about on all fours with
an arched back.  Clucking is common too.  Dancing or just careening
into walls or bookcases is not at all uncommon, but ferrets seem to
just bounce off of such obstacles.  Unless they actually injure
themselves, don't worry about them; they're having fun.

Immediately after a bath, many ferrets pretty much go nuts, thrashing
from side to side and rolling against everything in sight.  Mainly
they're trying to dry themselves, with a good bit of general
excitement from the bath and drying process (see question 4.6) too.

------------------------------

Subject: <5.7> What else should I probably not worry about?

Scratching: Ferrets just seem to be itchy little critters.  If you
     don't see any fleas or "flea dust" (bits of dried blood), it's
     probably not fleas, so as long as the skin isn't irritated or
     balding don't worry about it.  If you see little white flakes, it
     may be dry skin.
Sniffing/wiping/licking the rear: This is a normal thing to do,
     especially after a bath.  It helps spread the ferret's scent
     around.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

6. *** Problems to watch for *** 

------------------------------

Subject: <6.1> What warning signs of disease should I watch for?

NOTE: I am not a veterinarian.  I haven't even owned ferrets very
long.  (Dr. Bruce Williams, on the other hand, -is- a vet and ferret
expert.)  The following is by no means a comprehensive list of
symptoms of disease in ferrets.  However, some of the more common
problems are often accompanied by these symptoms.  If you notice one
of these, or any other unusual behavior, see your vet.

ALSO: Ferrets are small.  While they generally enjoy good health, any
kind of disease or disorder can be fatal in only a day or two, so if
you suspect a problem, see your vet immediately.

- Lethargy, lack of playfulness, loss of appetite, dull/glassy eyes,
  limp whiskers, etc.  Symptomatic of a number of problems.  [6.2]

- Lack of bowel movement.  If your ferret has gone longer than usual
  without using the litter pan (or some other corner) productively,
  he may have an intestinal blockage.  Certainly by the time it's been
  24 hours you should go to the vet immediately.  Note that a ferret
  can continue to defecate for as much as a day even with a blockage,
  since there's still waste in the intestines to be eliminated.

  Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, says:

     More often than not, [the cause of a lack of bowel movement] is a
     lack of food intake for some other reason.

     Ferrets generally go to the litter three or four times a day.
     Owners should look for adequate stools, although some may be a
     little loose.  Also look for string-like stools.  Ferrets with
     intestinal blockages can continue to pass stool which is very
     thin- like a pencil lead.  But adequate ferret-proofing [4.1] is
     much more important than stool-watching.

   - A swollen abdomen.  Bloating may come from many problems such as
     heart disease, splenic enlargement, or even just fat animals.

- A painful abdomen.  Could be any of several disorders, but the most
  common is an intestinal blockage, caused by eating something
  indigestible such as a sponge or an eraser.  Not all blockages cause
  abdominal pain, though.  [6.2]

- Change in "bathroom" habits.  Suddenly refusing to use a litter pan
  or missing a lot more than usual, signs of discomfort or distress
  while using a pan, or any funny color or texture in the feces or
  urine could be a sign of any of a number of problems.  Stress,
  perhaps from a change in environment, can also cause this.

- Lumps in the body or feet.  These are most often associated with
  tumors, which may be benign or cancerous.  They can also be a sign
  of an infection, the result of dietary problems, or a vaccine
  reaction [6.2].  Have any swelling or lump checked out.

- Difficulty using the hind feet, lack of movement, awkward gait.
  Most often a sign of an adrenal or pancreatic tumor, or arthritis,
  in older ferrets.  Could also be an injured back, the result of
  having been stepped or sat upon, closed in a door, or the like.
  Ferrets have very flexible spines, but they're easily injured.

  Says Dr. Bruce Williams, DVM, about hind-end awkwardness:

     This is a common finding in older animals of many species - the
     most common cause is a mild degeneration of the nerves in the
     spinal cord or those innervating the legs.  In most of these
     cases, there is nothing to be done, but it also rarely results in
     paralysis, just variable amounts of weakness.

- Overheating.  Ferrets do not tolerate high temperatures well at all.
  They (like any pet) should NEVER be left in a hot car, and if you're
  keeping them outdoors be sure to provide some shade and plenty of
  water in summer.  Allowing them to sleep under hot radiators is
  probably also a bit risky.  Temperatures as low as the 80's can be
  life-threatening to ferrets without shade or water.

- Loose skin and dull eyes.  Generally caused by dehydration, which is
  serious in such a small animal.

- Unexplained hair loss.  Not the usual seasonal shedding, which
  should happen twice a year (but the times may vary due to indoor
  lighting conditions), but a severe loss, especially if more than the
  tail is affected.  [5.3, 6.2]

- Seizures.  It's pretty obvious that these indicate some kind of
  problem.  Most often the result of islet cell tumors [6.2] in the
  pancreas causing extremely low blood sugar, but there are many other
  causes too.

- Diarrhea or vomiting.  Both of these are serious, since ferrets are
  easily dehydrated.  Diarrhea may be caused by milk products, which
  contain lactose that ferrets do not tolerate, or by a number of
  diseases.  Ferrets do not generally vomit unless they're rather ill,
  although during shedding season they may "spit up" a bit due to hair
  in the throat [3.5].

- Sneezing, runny nose, watery eyes, lethargy.  Yes, ferrets catch
  human colds and flu.  They'll generally rest and drink a lot.  A
  visit to the vet would probably be a good idea, particularly if the
  cold looks bad or lasts more than a few days.

- Tooth grinding.  Almost exclusively abdominal pain.  #1 cause -
  stress-associated gastric ulcers.

------------------------------

Subject: <6.2> What are some of the more common diseases in ferrets?

Once again, I'm not a vet or even a ferret expert, but here's a list
of several of the most common medical problems in ferrets, especially
older ones.  (Dr. Bruce Williams -is- a vet and ferret expert.)

* Intestinal blockages.  Caused by eating something indigestible, such
as an eraser, a rubber band, some fabrics, or even a good-sized
hairball (accumulated from grooming), which gets stuck.  Symptoms may
include (one or more of) lack of bowel movement, constipation,
bloating, vomiting or heaving, drooling, and others.  Blockages may
occur at any point in the digestive tract, from the throat through the
lower intestine, even in the stomach where the object may move around
and produce only intermittent symptoms.  Laxatone or a similar
hairball remedy/laxative can help prevent this [3.5].  Treatment is
surgery, to remove the blockage.

* Tumors or lesions of the adrenal glands.  Symptoms vary, including
hair loss spreading from the base of the tail forward [5.3], lethargy,
loss of appetite, and loss of coordination in the hindquarters.  In
females, often the most prominent sign is an enlarged vulva as in
heat.  Often, however, a tumor will be present without showing any
signs at all, so if your ferret is going in for any surgery, the vet
should take a look at the adrenal glands as well (if time permits --
ferrets lose body heat very quickly in surgery).  The left gland seems
to be affected more often than the right.

* Islet cell tumors.  These are tumors of insulin-secreting cells in
the pancreas.  Their main effect is a drop in the blood sugar level,
and they are also common enough in older ferrets, even without
symptoms, that if your pet is having surgery for something else, a
quick check is worthwhile.  Symptoms include lethargy and loss of
appetite; in more severe cases attention lapses (staring into space)
and seizures may also occur.  If you're more than a minute from your
vet and your ferret has a low enough blood sugar level to be having
seizures, call the vet and ask if you should rub Karo (corn sugar)
syrup on your pet's gums to raise it just enough to bring him out of
the seizure.

Dr. Williams adds: 

   * Lymphosarcoma.  Lymphosarcoma is the most common type of cancer
   in the ferret.  It is a tumor of a certain type of white blood
   cell, and the most common clinical sign is enlargement of the lymph
   nodes.  It may also arise in the abdomen, where lymph nodes can
   only be felt with reasonable accuracy by your veterinarian.  It is
   most commonly seen in older animals from 4-6 years of age, although
   animals as young as a year old can have it.  While animals
   initially respond well to chemotherapy, they usually relapse in 2
   months or less, and generally are put to sleep at this time.  The
   prognosis for any ferret with lymphosarcoma is poor.

   * Gastric ulcers.  Ferrets may develop gastric ulcers in time o
   stress.  Clinical signs are dark, tarry stools, a lack of appetite,
   and grinding of the teeth.  It can be treated by your vet, but it
   takes 3-4 weeks to recover from this condition.  You must first
   remove the stress from the animals environment before any recovery
   can begin.  These animals also need good nursing care to get them
   back on their food.  With proper care - recovery rates are over
   90%.

  * Cutaneous vaccine reactions.  Subcutaneous vaccination with rabies
  or other vaccines may, over a period of weeks, cause a hard lump
  [6.2] at the site of vaccination.  The lump simply consists of a
  large area of inflammation and most commonly are seen around the
  neck.  The lumps can be removed, and generally do not cause a major
  problem for your pet.  Similar lesions may be seen in vaccinated
  dogs and cats.

  * Helicobacter mustelae infection.  Infection of the stomach lining
  by a bacteria, Helicobacter mustelae is extremely common in ferrets.
  Animals with longstanding infections (generally older animals), may
  develop gastric problems due to the bacteria's ability to decrease
  acid production in the stomach.  Signs of a problem include
  repetitive vomiting, lack of appetite, and signs of gastric ulcers
  (see above).  Helicobacter infection and gastric ulcers often go
  hand in hand - the relationship between infection and gastric ulcer
  formation has not been totally worked out, although there is
  currently a lot of research in this area.  Helicobacter infection
  can be cured with administration of antibiotic and a gastric coating
  agent over a period of weeks.

------------------------------

Subject: <6.3> How did I get fleas in my home? How can I get rid of
               them?

Even if your ferrets are never outdoors, you can bring in fleas or
their eggs on your shoes or clothing.

There's a whole FAQ dedicated to ridding your pet and your home of
fleas and ticks.  It's distributed in the usenet newsgroup rec.pets.
You can also get it by FTP:
 ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/news.answers/fleas-ticks
(that is, ftp to rtfm.mit.edu and get the indicated file) or by sending
email to mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu with the line
send usenet/news.answers/fleas-ticks
in the body of the message (with an empty subject line).

In general, most products which are safe for use on kittens are safe
for ferrets.  Products containing pyrethins are okay, but don't use
anything containing organophosphates or carbamate.  Be especially
careful with dips and sprays; shampoos are much safer.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

7. *** Where to get more information ***

------------------------------

Subject: <7.1> How can I find a ferret breeder/contact/shelter in my area?

An extensive list of ferret clubs, breeders, and organizations is
maintained by STAR*Ferrets and is available by email from a list
server.  Send email to
                   listserv@cunyvm.cuny.edu
with the line
SEND FERRET DATABASE 
in the body.  Note that the file is rather long, around 44K, which may
give some mailers problems.

------------------------------

Subject: <7.2> How do I join the Ferret Mailing list?

The Ferret Mailing List (FML) is strongly recommended.  To subscribe
to the FML, send a note to its moderator, Chris Lewis, at
                 ferret-request@ferret.ocunix.on.ca
and ask to be added.  You'll get a note back detailing policies and
such and explaining how to send letters to the list.

------------------------------

Subject: <7.3> Is there any other information available on-line?

Discussions of ferrets sometimes come up in the Usenet newsgroup
rec.pets.  The FAQ "Fleas, Ticks and Your Pet" is distributed there,
as well [6.3].  Several bulletin board systems keep pet FAQs and
discussions, as does the Compuserve Small Mammals forum.

------------------------------

Subject: <7.4> What are some of the books available?

Lots of books have been written about ferrets, ranging from brief
treatments to extensive discussions of behavior and medical issues.
Introductory books, all most owners will ever need, are usually
available in pet stores.  Two of the more popular are

Ferrets: a Complete Owner's Manual, by Chuck and Fox Morton.  Barron's
   Educational Series, Hauppauge, NY, 1985.  ISBN 0-8120-2976-3
     A relatively short, but well-written guide.  Not as in-depth as
     some, but a very good, friendly introduction to ferrets as pets.

Ferrets in Your Home, by Dr. Wendy Winsted.  T.F.H. Publications,
   Inc., Neptune City, NJ, 1990.  ISBN 0-86622-988-4
     Longer and more in-depth, but still very readable.  Includes, for
     instance, more information on reproduction and breeding, but also
     more expensive.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

8. *** Revision history of this file ***

The most accurate description of the version of this FAQ is the date
at the top.  For really minor changes, I won't necessarily change the
version number, but I'll always change the date.

Version 1.2 - 3 May 94
  Added sections 0.1, 0.2, 1.3, 1.4, 2.5
  Revised and reformatted pretty much the whole file

Version 1.1.1 - 15 Mar 94
  Added copyright and redistribution information

Version 1.1 - 28 Jan 94 
  Revised the top disclaimer and numerous sections

Version 1.0 - 15 Dec 93 
  The first "release" version, though previous ones were distributed
  Completely revised and reorganized the file 

Version 0.3 - 12/7/93
Version 0.2 - 11/29/93
Version 0.1 - 11/23/93
  The original version.

