
mothost!lmpsbbs!leigh
         Subjects covered include:          
           Section 1: buying a boat.
           Section 2: learning to sea kayak.
           Section 3: equipment
           Section 4: sea kayak construction
           Section 5: folding kayaks
           Section 6: hypothermia
           Section 7: history
           Section 8: controversial topics
           Section 9: references
          Section 10: clubs, shops, outfitters, manufacturers
          Section 11: places to paddle


Archive-name: boats-faq/sea-kayaking

Copyright 1995, Todd Leigh. Copyright applies to compilation and 
sections
where
another author is not noted.  Authors where noted retain their 
copyrights.
Rights granted to copy as desired for non-profit activities.  All other 
rights
reserved.

This is the periodic posting of the sea kayaking FAQ. The FAQ has been 
brought

on.

Ralph Diaz generously contributed the section on folding kayaks, thanks 
Ralph!

Authors who are primarily responsible for various sections of the FAQ 
are now
attributed.

Usually, questions, comments, criticisms, and other good advices are 
happily 
accepted.

Sea Kayaking Frequently Asked Questions:

None of the information in this FAQ will make you a good kayaker. None 
of it
is
guaranteed to be correct, and much of it is subject to opinion. Take it 
for
what
you paid for it.

Todd Leigh - FAQ compiler
leigh@ssd.comm.mot.com

Thanks to Chris Bell - suggestions
          Sam Crowley - history and hypothermia
          Ralph Diaz - folding kayaks
          George Dyson - history critique
          Alex Ferguson - history and good suggestions on everything 
else
          Bob Myers - suggestions, faq submission criteria
          Kirk Olsen - suggestions
          Nick Schade - kayak building and kits
          Greg Stamer - history critique and suggestions

Note the inclusion of a controversial topics section. Please don't send 
me
email to argue about these. Constructive criticism will be accepted 
though.

If you want to add references, please include publisher information. If 
anyone

can fill in the publisher information that's missing currently, please 
send 
email.

If you know of a club, outfitter, or manufacturer that should be listed, 
send
a 
blurb in the format shown, and I'll add it. Same with places to paddle.

This FAQ is available on FTP from volt.iem.edu.pl (/pub/kayak) or in a
hypertext version, the URL is:

http://salk.edu/~preston/kayak/sfaq/toc.html

************************************************************************
******
**

Section 1: buying a boat.

What is the best boat?

Every boat is different and there is no best boat for all paddling 
conditions.

Any boat is a trade off, features that work well in one set of 
conditions can 
compromise performance/handling in another set of conditions. You have 
to know

what type of paddling conditions you want to paddle in before selecting 
a
boat.

Multi-day expeditions dictate a different boat than morning explorations 
of an
estuary or surf-zone excitement or teaching others to kayak. 

One fundamental trade-off in boat design is tracking vs. turning. 
Generally a 
boat that tracks well (goes straight) does not turn as well as a boat 
that
does 
not track well. There are varying degrees of these two characteristics 
in all 
boats, and some boats that track well can be made to turn better if you 
are 
willing and able to lean them when you turn, but if you're going to be 
turning
a
lot, buy a boat that turns, if you are going straight all day, buy a 
boat that

tracks. 

Another characteristic to consider is the initial stability of the boat.
Initial
(or primary) stability is the ease with which a boat starts to tip. Low
initial 
stability will make the boat feel 'tender' or 'tippy. A boat that is 
tender to

sit in is going to be much more difficult to fish or take pictures out 
of, so
if
that's what you want to do, consider a boat with more initial stability. 
A
boat 
with very high initial stability will be more difficult to handle in big
waves, 
because it will tend to try to sit flat relative to the water rather 
than the 
horizon. The consequences of this tendency are left as an exercise for 
the 
reader.

Another thing to consider is the final stability of the boat. Final (or 
secondary) stability is the ease with which the boat tips all the way 
over.
High
final stability is desirable for any boat, but it may take some time to
develop 
the balance and skill to take advantage of it.

Paddlers are all different. A boat will perform/handle differently for a 
tall
person than for a short person, and for a heavy person than a light 
person. A 
person's requirements of a boat may change as the person's skill level
changes. 
Often, a person with advanced skills will be interested in different 
boat 
features than a person with beginner/intermediate skills. 

********

Should I start in a 'beginner' boat, or should I buy an 'expert' boat 
and hope
I
can 'grow' into it?

Often people want to purchase a boat they can 'grow into'. This implies 
a 
distinction between boats that are comfortable for beginners and boats 
that
are 
comfortable for experts. 

The biggest perceived difference in 'beginner' boats vs. 'expert' boats 
is in 
initial stability. 'Expert' boats generally have lower initial stability 
than 
'beginner' boats, and 'beginner' boats often increase initial stability 
at the

expense of final stability. Advanced paddlers generally want a boat with 
high 
final stability because it is needed in more difficult sea conditions.
Advanced 
paddlers (and beginners) also want a fast boat, and in many boats 
initial 
stability is traded off for speed.

If, as a beginner, you are willing to put up with some uneasy sensations 
early

in your paddling career, you may wish to purchase an 'expert' boat and 
'grow 
into' it, assuming the 'expert' boat has some other characteristics that 
you 
find desirable. Keep in mind that low initial stability, the hallmark of 
'expert' boats, is not a desirable characteristic in and of itself. Find 
a
boat 
that you like, and think you will continue to like as you become a 
better 
kayaker, and purchase that boat. If it happens to be a boat that is 
outside of

your comfort level now, ask yourself honestly if it will ever be in your
comfort
level, and either purchase it now and put up with the difficulties, or 
rent/borrow boats until you are comfortable in your dream boat, then buy 
it.

Don't buy a boat just because someone tells you it is an 'expert' boat. 
Find
out
what you like in a boat and use your own judgement in your purchase.

Do not confuse how many years a person has been paddling with advanced 
skills.
A
person's skills will only increase if they work at increasing them.

********

Should I get plastic, fiberglass, wood, fabric or something more exotic?

Plastic is heavier, more resistant to damage, harder to repair.

Fiberglass is lighter, easier to repair, results in finer lines, but is 
more  
 
expensive. Fiberglass is generally more rigid than plastic, which can 
result
in
a faster boat.

Wood is labor intensive but relatively easy to build (a little less 
labor 
intensive if built from a kit), light, easy to repair, needs 
maintenance.
There 
are also a few companies that manufacture wood/epoxy-construction 
kayaks, but 
they tend to be more expensive.

Fabric is labor intensive to build though a little less so than wood, 
fragile,

and needs maintenance. 

Folding boats are a form of fabric boat that collapses for 
transport/storage. 
They are generally more expensive to buy than any other kind of boat, 
but
there
are other considerations that may make them a better overall value. See
section 
5, folding kayaks, for more information.

Inflatable boats tend to be much less expensive than any other sort of 
boat.

Rigid boats may perform better than folding or inflatable boats. Folding 
and 
inflatable boats have the advantage of easier portability and storage. 
If you 
plan to travel with your boat, a folding or inflatable boat will be 
easier to 
get on airliners. If your home is tight on storage space, a 
folding/inflatable

boat will be easier to store than a rigid boat.

More exotic materials (like kevlar, carbon fiber) tend to be lighter and
costlier.

********

How should the boat fit?

You can pad any boat, but it should fit you fairly well to begin with. 
Your
contact points with the boat are your feet, your knees (on the underside 
of
the
deck), your hips (on the sides of the seat), and your butt (on the 
seat). Some
boats fit big people better, some are better for small folks. The size 
of your
feet is a consideration too. In general, a sea kayak needs to be 
comfortable
because you are going to be in it all day, perhaps without a break. Some
people 
prefer a looser fit in a sea kayak than in a whitewater boat, allowing 
space
to 
stretch and move about.

Another thing to consider is cockpit size. A larger cockpit can make it 
easier

for a person to enter and exit a boat. A smaller cockpit is preferred by 
some 
because it is considered more watertight.

********

How should the boat be rigged?

Deck lines that run along the edges of the deck from the bow to the 
stern are
important safety equipment. Bungies that cross the deck in front of and 
behind

the cockpit are handy for stowing gear where it is easy to reach. Some
paddlers
prefer to have built-in compasses and pumps in their boats. Tow systems 
may be

necessary for aiding other paddlers.

Different boats come with different kinds of deck rigging. Anything it 
doesn't

have that you want you will have to add. Are you willing to go to that
trouble?

********

How big of a boat do I need?

The volume of the boat you need is dependent on how much stuff you are 
going
to 
carry in it, and on how big you are (see 'fit' above). Overnight trips 
do not 
need as large a boat as week-long outings. You can, of course, pack 
light and 
get more stuff in a smaller boat (heck, Paul Caffyn has done some 
monstrously 
long trips in a Nordkapp, not the largest volume boat that's available 
out 
there), but for some people part of the joy of sea kayaking is in the 
amount
of 
(luxurious) stuff they can bring. If that's you, you need a bigger boat. 
A 
bigger boat will also be easier to paddle in bigger seas than a smaller 
boat. 
Also, the way the volume of the boat is distributed is important in 
dictating 
how the boat handles, as more bow (and stern) volume helps to prevent 
the bow
or
stern of the boat from diving into the trough of waves in surf.

********

Should I get a single or double?

Single kayaks provide greater maneuverablity than doubles. Doubles can 
be
faster
than singles. Doubles may be able to carry more gear, but keep in mind 
that
they
need to carry more than twice as much gear for this to be true. A double 
will 
require the use of a rudder to steer. A double on a trip can provide an 
ill/injured person with a safer place to sit than in a single being 
towed.
Some 
doubles are more stable than a single but will be more difficult to 
rescue and

pump dry. 

********

What kind of hatches should I get?

There are lots of different hatch designs out there. Considerations when
looking
at hatches are watertightness, resistance to breakage, and size. If you 
want
to 
bring the kitchen sink, you'd better not just have a 9 inch round hatch. 
Consider also that heavy seas and surf can break or blow off hatch 
covers, so 
consider how they are attached to avoid losing them, and don't depend on 
them 
for floatation of the boat. If the compartments aren't full of gear, use 
float

bags.

********

Will I have enough cargo space?

Cargo space is related to size of the boat, but also to position of the 
bulkheads (if there are any). The cockpit can also be used for cargo, 
but keep

in mind that it may not stay dry, it may impede your exit if that 
becomes 
necessary, and it may fall out if you do exit. Keep in mind also that a 
leaky 
hatch or bulkhead may compromise the watertight cargo compartments, and 
pack 
accordingly.

A "proper" sea boat should have bulkheads that you can rely on for 
integrity
and
water-tightness. Airbags take up stowage space and stores don't fill the 
"holes".

Almost all plastic boats have bulkheads that leak. The leaks can be 
repaired
temporarily, but they will eventually start leaking again. Leaking 
bulkheads
can
compromise the safety provided by the added bouyancy of the watertight 
compartments. Expect to spend some time patching the leaks with a 
plastic
boat.

********

Do I need a rudder?

This is one of sea kayaking's religious debates.

You might need a rudder to go straight, or the boat might need a rudder 
to go
straight, or you might just want a rudder so you don't have to worry 
about 
steering. Look for a design that is durable, easily stowed, and which 
has a 
footbrace design you can live with. Like rigging, this is something you 
can 
modify if you are willing to do the work. An alternative to a rudder is 
a
skeg, 
either permanent or retractable, which is basically a fixed rudder. It 
will
not 
help steer, but it will help go straight. Both rudders and skegs are 
subject
to 
breakage/jamming. In many rudder systems, a failure may result in losing
support
from your foot braces. A properly designed rudder should be able to 
stand up
to 
a lot of abuse including resting the kayak on end on it.

A rudder should not be necessary for you to control your kayak, and you 
should

learn proper kayaking technique without the rudder becoming a crutch.

Two boat characteristics that a rudder or skeg can help with are the 
boat's 
tendency to weathercock, and the boat's tendency to broach.

Weathercocking occurs when there is a wind in the front quarter or beam 
of the

boat. Because of their aerodynamics/hydrodynamics, many boats will tend 
to try

to turn into a wind when they are moving forward because the bow of the 
boat
is 
held in place by the bow wave generated by the boat's forward movement, 
while 
the stern is free to pivot. A boat that weathercocks is safer than one 
in
which 
the bow is blown downwind as it is very difficult to turn a boat with 
this 
characteristic into the wind.

Broaching is the boat's tendency to turn sideways to wave coming from 
the
stern 
or rear quarter of the boat. This happens because the water in waves is 
moving
more slowly in the trough of the wave than at the crest, making the 
stern of
the
boat try to 'catch up' to the bow.

********

How much of a consideration is the weight of the boat?

_
                                                                                                         


If you need to haul the boat on and off the top of the car, carry it any 
distance, or portage, this is an important characteristic. Lighter boats 
also 
tend to feel livelier in the water and are faster, although this is not 
as
much 
of a consideration when you've got 300 pounds of boater and gear in the 
boat.
In
general, plastic is heavier than fiberglass is heavier than exotic 
materials 
like kevlar, carbon fiber, etc., but there are exceptions.

********

How important is the durability of the boat's construction?

If you want to drag your boat over rocks or drop it off a pier, this is 
an
important consideration, but even if you don't abuse your boat, it wears 
in 
normal usage as well, so consider durability in your selection. In 
general, 
plastic stands up to abuse better than fiberglass, but is harder to 
repair.
Keep
in mind that in fiberglass construction, heavier is not necessarily 
stronger.

********

How much should I spend on a boat? (USA prices)

Buy a boat you can afford, but if you find a boat you really like which 
is too
expensive, it may be worthwhile to save your pennies until you can 
afford it.
If
you have a fixed price range you are interested in, it may be a good 
idea to 
only try boats in that price range, so you are satisfied with what you 
get. 
Plastic boats run $500-$1200, Fiberglass $1000-$2100, other materials 
tend to 
cost more. Sometimes you can find boats sold used for less, especially 
if a
shop
or outfitter is selling old boats from their rental fleet.

********

What should I look for when I'm trying a boat out?

The best way to choose a boat, and the only way to determine its 
paddling 
characteristics, is to try it, and you should take opportunities to try 
as
many 
boats as you can to decide what you like. Many shops have demo days, and 
symposia are good opportunities to try boats. Try to find an opportunity 
to 
paddle in the conditions you are planning on using the boat in. Also, 
consider

how the boat handles when it is loaded as well as unloaded. Things to 
think 
about when you are trying the boat are:

Does it feel comfortable just sitting in it?

Lean the boat onto it's side. Does it stop leaning or keep going and tip 
over?
Is there a point where the resistance to leaning increases?

Paddle the boat into the wind, across the wind, with the wind behind 
you. How 
easy is it to keep on course? How fast is it?

How easy is the boat to turn?

These things test some of the fundamental characteristics of boat 
handling:

Speed - a function of length, width, and hull shape.
Tracking - ability of the boat to go straight.
Maneuverability - ability of the boat to turn easily.
Initial or primary stability - effort it takes to lean the boat off of 
an 
                               upright position.
Final or secondary stability - effort it takes to tip the boat over.

Typical trade-offs:

Tracking vs. Maneuverability
Initial vs. Final Stability
Speed vs. Stability

************************************************************************
******
**

Section 2: learning to sea kayak.

How do I learn to kayak?

There are lots of options:

1. Buy a boat, take it out and paddle, teach yourself from harsh 
experience. 
   Books and some videos are available. See the list at the end of the 
FAQ.  
   Seidman's _The Essential Sea Kayaker_ and Foster's _Sea Kayaking_ are 
   particularly good for beginners.

2. Go on a guided trip. Most outfitters provide guides, equipment, and 
   instruction.

3. Take a class. Many shops that sell sea kayaks have an instructional
program.
   The American Canoe Association and other national paddlesport 
organizations

   also offer sea kayak instruction.

4. Join a local club and paddle with some experienced paddlers. Many 
clubs
offer
   some level of kayak instruction.

********

Am I ready to go kayaking on my own?

Turing test for sea kayaking, or, are you ready to do a coastal kayaking 
trip
on
your own?

These questions are not intended to tell anyone that they can or can't 
go out 
kayaking on their own. They are simply a quick survey of the 
knowledge/skills 
that are helpful in coastal kayaking. You have to decide for yourself 
what you

are capable of.

1. Do you own your own boat(s)? What kind? What size/kind of hatches 
does it 
   have? Does it have watertight bulkheads? What sort of deck rigging 
has your
   boat got? Does it have a rudder? Can you fix your boat if it breaks? 
Do you

   have a spare paddle? Do you have a paddle float? A pump?

2. Have you ever paddled a loaded boat? Have your ever loaded a boat? 
What
sort 
   of camping equipment do you own? How comfortable are you camping in 
bad 
   weather conditions?

3. Have you ever dealt with cold water conditions? What kind of paddling
clothes
   do you have to deal with cold water? What are the effects of cold 
shock? Do

   you know how to prevent it? What are the symptoms of hypothermia? 
What
about 
   hyperthermia?

4. Do you know how far you can travel in a day with a loaded boat? How 
about
in 
   a headwind? How about with following seas? Do you know your limits 
with 
   respect to wind/weather/sea conditions you are comfortable paddling 
in, or 
   have you only paddled calm seas? Would you know when it is not safe 
to 
   paddle? Have you ever paddled in surf? Do you know how 
   wind/weather/topography/tides affect sea conditions? 

5. Do you own a weather radio? How about a marine VHF 2-way radio? Do 
you know

   different ways to signal for help if you need it? What types of 
signalling 
   equipment do you own?

6. Do you know how to reenter your boat with or without assistance 
should you 
   tip over and have to exit? What sea conditions are you capable of 
doing
this 
   in? Have you ever tipped over and exited your boat? Do you have a 
roll? How

   are your braces?

7. Can you navigate in a kayak if you can't see your destination? Do you 
own a

   compass? Hand held or deck mount? Do you know how to use a nautical 
chart
and
   protractor? Do you know how to correct for magnetic declination? How 
do you

   decide when not to go?

8. What do you know about tides and tidal currents? How do they affect 
sea
   conditions?

9. Do you know what to do if someone gets hurt? Are you prepared to tow?

10. Have you ever taken a coastal kayaking class? Have you ever gone on 
an 
    extended kayaking trip?

************************************************************************
******
**

Section 3: equipment

The essentials -
boat
paddle
sprayskirt
PFD : personal flotation device (life jacket)

safety gear - 
spare paddle
bilge pump
paddle float
weather radio
emergency shelter and rations
first aid kit
tow system
helmet for surf conditions

signalling - 
flares : handheld and aerial
smoke canister
flag
mirror
whistle
flashlight
marine VHF radio
strobe
EPIRB

navigation - 
compass : hand-held and deck-mounted
charts
chart cover
course protractor
tide charts and tables
wristwatch

clothing - 
paddling jacket
wetsuit
drysuit
polyester, nylon, or wool insulating garments if it's cold or the water 
is
cold
cotton garments for cooling/sun protection if it's hot and the water is 
warm
headwear : balaclava, beanie, or neoprene hood, sun hat, rain hat, etc.
handwear : gloves or pogies
footwear : booties, neoprene socks, aquasocks, sandals, rubber boots, 
etc.

camping - 
sleeping bags
sleeping pads
tents or bivie sacks
stoves
pots and pans
dry bags for gear stowage
etc.

************************************************************************
******
**

Section 4: Sea kayak construction
Author: Nick Schade

How do I build a kayak?

Strip-built (SB) and Stitch & Glue (S&G) are two methods of home-
building a 
kayak. There are also several methods of constructing "traditional" skin
covered
kayaks, some other techniques for plywood, and you can also use a mold. 
These 
may be added to the FAQ at a later date.

The two building processes SB and S&G are quite different. In SB you 
bend
narrow
strips around a form. With S&G there is no form. You take shaped plywood
panels,
stitch them edge-to-edge, then glue them together. What this means is 
that
with 
SB you can make smooth rounded shapes. With S&G you end up with angles 
running

lengthwise for a "hard-chined" shape. Both shapes are good. Some people 
prefer
a
hard-chined boat.

Neither method produces a "better" boat. Strip Built gives more design 
freedom

(you can make it hard-chined if desired.), and looks nicer (plywood 
looks 
alright but strips of cedar, redwood and pine is beautiful). SB can make 
a 
lighter weight boat but S&G can also be light. 

S&G is easier. There is less setup involved and somewhat easier finish 
work.
The
following are outlines for each process:

                        STRIP-BUILT
=======================================================
The basic process for a strip built kayak is this:
1. Draw out the forms full size,
2. Paste the drawings to cheap plywood,
3. Cut out the forms using the saber-saw or band-saw,
4. Cut a hole in the middle of the forms,
5. String the forms on a straight two-by-four,
6. Lay 3/4" x 1/4" strips on the forms and staple in place,
7. Add strips, gluing edge to edge, and stapling,
8. When stripped all the way around, pull the staples,
9. Plane smooth,
10. Sand smoother,
11. Fiber-glass the outside,
12. Remove the shell from the forms in two halves (deck and hull),
13. Plane and sand the inside,
14. Fiber-glass the inside,
15. Glue the deck and hull back together,
16. Sand,
17. Varnish, go to 16 and repeat until bored,
18. Paddle.

This process shouldn't take more than three months. The weight of these 
boats 
with a good protective layer of glass is 45 lbs or less. Materials cost 
about 
$300 US total.

                    STITCH AND GLUE
=======================================================
The basic process for Stitch & Glue is:
1. "Scarf" together several pieces of plywood (Make one big sheet out of
several
   4x8 sheets
2. Draw the parts full-sized on the plywood.
3. Cutout the parts.
4. Drill small holes along the edges of the parts ever 3" to 5".
5. With wire "stitch" the panels for the hull together through the 
drilled
holes.
6. Glue the interior seams with a "fillet" of thickened resin covered 
with 
   'glass tape.
7. repeat 5 & 6 for the deck.
8. Bond together the deck and hull in a similar manner.
9. Cut the wires and pull them out or sand them down.
10. "Radius" the corners.
11. Glass the outside. (optional but recommend on the bottom)
12. Sand and Paint.
13. Paddle.

This process takes about 1 to 1 1/2 months worth of weekends and 
evenings. 
Weight with glass on the bottom is about 40 lbs. Material cost about 
$200 US.


                   SKIN AND FRAME
=======================================================
The basic process for Skin and Frame is:
1. Cut two gunwhale pieces, symmetrical about the grain, from a 16ft. 
plank.
2. Cut and plane an identical angle in both ends of the two pieces so 
that
when 
   they are placed in a 'boat' shape, they meet flat.
3. Tie the ends together and establish your shear-line shape by putting
spacers
   between the two pieces. Peg the ends of the gunwhales together.
4. Cut about 12-15 deck supports to hold the shape of gunwhales. One 
serves as
   a footbrace, one is right behind the cockpit as a back support, and 
the two

   in front of the cockpit should be arched to provide knee room and 
easy
entry.
   Peg or mortice-tenon these supports in and lash them to the 
gunwhales.
5. Cut slots in the bottom of the gunwhales for ribs.
6. Cut stem and stern pieces from a plank. These should meet the 
gunwhales 
   smoothly and provide an attachment point for the keel. Lash them to 
the
   gunwhales.
7. Steam, cut, and bend ribs. The ribs will establish the bottom shape 
of the 
   hull. Peg the ribs into the gunwhales if desired.
8. Cut chine stringers and a keel piece to fit, peg to the ribs if 
desired,
peg
   and lash to the stem and stern pieces.
9. Skin the boat with your choice of material.
10. Cut and bend a cockpit coaming, sew it to the skin.
11. Paint the skin to waterproof it if necessary.
12. Paddle.

This is obviously a much-simplified list of steps. It takes about 100 
hours to
build a boat this way, about 3 months of weekends. Weight is < 40 
pounds. 
Material cost is about $200 US.

********

Where can I get a kit to build a kayak?

Strip Built:
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Nick Schade
Guillemot Kayaks
104 So. Second Ave.
Taftville, CT 06380
(203) 887-5847
internet: Guillemot@aol.com
-> Unique performance kayaks. 7 designs and growing
-> Spooned & feathered paddle plan
-> send $2 for more info
-> Author of this portion of the FAQ and expert

DR Designs
821 Dock St. #3-6
Tacoma, Washington 98402
-> four models, patterns and instructions

Laughing Loon
Rob Macks
833A Colrain Rd.
Greenfield, MA 01301
(413) 773-5375
-> Kayaks and Canoes

Loon Kayaks
HCR 32 Box 253
Semasco Estates, ME 04565
(207) 389-1565
-> Several models


Stitch and Glue:
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Chesapeake Light Craft
34 S. Pershing Dr.
Arlington, VA 22204
(703) 271 8787
-> 5 models; kits, plans, and finished boats

Glen-L Marine
9152 Rosecrans
Box 1804-WB3
Bellflower, CA 90706
(310) 630-6258
-> 1 kayak and lots of other boats

_
                                                


Rob Bryan
Kennebec Designs
P.O. Box 475
Woolwich, ME 04579
-> Seguin

West Greenland Sea Kayak
Spring Harbor Kayak Company
5156 Spring Court
Madison, WI 53705

Pygmy Sea Kayaks
P.O. Box 1529
Dept. 5
Port Townsend, WA 98368
(206) 385-6143
-> Multichine kits


Frame and Skin:
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Boucher Kayak Company
1907 Ludington Avenue
Wauwatosa, WI 53226
(414) 476-3787
-> plans, kits, video. Greenland style

Dyson, Baidarka & Company
435 W. Holly St.
Bellingham, WA  98225
(206)734-9226 phone
(206)671-9736 fax
-> Aleutian style plans, materials 
-> including heatshrinkable nylon 
-> (14, 15, and 26 ounces/sq yard, uncoated, approx 6ft width)

Baidarka Historical Society
Box 5454
Bellingham WA 98227
-> Distributes those 5 or 6 of David Zimmerly's plans 
-> that document Aleut boats.
-> And distributes some rather obscure books.

R. Bruce Lemon
P.O. Box 54A
Jacksonville, NY 14854
(607) 387-8000
-> Aleutian style, plans, kits, video

Stimson Marine, Inc.
RR1, Box 524, River Rd.
Boothbay, Maine 04537
(207) 633-7252
Fax: (207) 633-6058
-> Heat shrink daycron skin

The Indian River Canoe and Kayak Company, Inc.
1861 So. Patrick Drive
Suite 200
Indian Harbor Beach, FL 32937
(800) 237-8400
-> Inuit based


Other:
-----------------------------------------------------------------
Spartina Kayak Co.
105-A Jordon Rd.
S. Dartmouth, MA 02748
(508) 998-5121
-> Fiberglass hull, strip deck kit

Lake Watercraft
David A. Lake
RR 3 Box 845
Wiscasset, ME 04578
(207) 443-6677
-> "Chewonki" Sea Kayak, plywood

Superior Kayaks
Mark Rogers
108 Menasha
Whitelaw, WI 54247
(414)732-3784
-> Classes on Greenland and Aleutian style boat construction.

************************************************************************
******
**

Section 5: folding kayaks
Author: Ralph Diaz

"It is impossible to exaggerate the usefulness of a folding kayak. Even 
the 
hackneyed phrase 'flying carpet' is appropriate to this ingeniously 
conceived 
craft . . . There is an immense amount to be learned about this 
deceptively 
simple boat. I suspect the reason for the folding kayak's complexity is
inherent
in the boat's design. All other craft have conventional similarities--a 
little

plastic motorboat has many features in common with the QE II, but these 
have 
nothing in common with a folding kayak. Consider the shape and 
construction of

the folding kayak, or any skin boat, and you have to reach a conclusion 
that
its
nearest equivalent is an animal's body, not a fish but a mammal, a 
vertebrate.

It has an interior skeleton, ribs, joints, a spine; it has a head and a 
tail,
it
has a hide, it flexes. To this animal shape the paddler brings a brain, 
and
energy, and guts."

--from the Foreword by Paul Theroux to Ralph Diaz's _The Complete 
Folding 
Kayaker_ published in 1994.

***************************

Is a folding kayak a sea kayak?

Yes, in every sense of the term, i.e. it's a kayak that is at home on 
open 
water. Since they first started a small-boating revolution in the early 
part
of 
this century, folding kayaks have been paddled safely and successfully 
on
every 
body of water from the Arctic to Antarctica. While they were first 
conceived
as 
a convenient, knock-down craft to take in the overhead luggage 
compartments of

trains heading to Alpine lakes and streams, intrepid types turned their 
prows
to
the sea almost from the very beginning. For example, the English Channel 
was 
crossed in one of the first ones in 1909.

Since then, they have proven time and time again that they are the 
quintessential open water boat, particularly for extreme conditions and 
expedition use. They have crossed 3,000 miles of the open Atlantic, 
first in 
1928 and then later in 1956; neither voyage with any support craft 
hovering 
nearby. In the 1920s, adventurers paddled folding kayaks in journeys 
following

the coastlines from Europe to India and beyond. These seaworthy kayaks 
were
used in long-distance open-water races during the 1920 and 1930s. For 
example,
in 
1933 Fridel Meyer paddled her folding kayak to win a contest involving 
more
than 1,000 miles of exposed waters off the British coastline.

Paddlers today suffer from a "born yesterday" syndrome. They tend to 
think
that 
sea kayaking only began in the late 1950s with the advent of the first 
workshop-built British hardshells and the factory production boom that
followed 
in the mid-1970s, but between the World Wars, hundreds of thousands of 
folding

kayaks were being built and paddled everywhere by ordinary people. While 
the 
sport is currently growing by the proverbial leaps and bounds, it still 
pales
by
comparison to the impact and ubiquitous presence folding kayaks had 
during
that 
earlier period.

********

Should you consider a folding kayak only if you require its foldability
feature?

No. That suggestion is seen in general sea kayaking manuals, most of 
which, in

essence, say that foldables are dogs to paddle and that you should only 
get
one 
as a last resort because you have no place to store a hardshell or you 
plan to

do a lot of air travel. Such conventional wisdom aside, foldability is 
far
from 
the only thing going for these versatile boats.

First, they are inherently seaworthy by design. They owe this strength 
to
their 
underlying skin-over-frame construction. This form of construction 
closely 
resembles that of kayaks of Northern native peoples, and it is what made 
them 
such seaworthy craft. Like their ancestors, modern skin boats and 
folding
kayaks
flex with the action of the sea rather than fighting its forces as a 
hardshell

does. The flex comes from the way that the internal frame blends the 
boat to
the
contours of the surrounding water, giving you a feel for sea's action 
much as 
early roadsters gave a driver "road feel". The soft sides of a skin or 
folding

kayak also play a role in seaworthiness. They dampen the impact of waves 
and 
wakes, so you are tossed around less.

Stability is another advantage. Most foldables made since the early 
1950s have

air tubes running along their sides called air sponsons. These tubes, 
encased
in
the soft sides of folding kayaks, provide unbelievable stability both in
initial
and final phases. The soft sides themselves also play a part in 
stability. No 
matter how taut the skin, water pressure forms small indents in the hull
between
long pieces of the frame along the entire length of the boat. These 
concave 
pockets tend to grip or take a bite in the water to slow and control any 
sideways tipping process caused by beam waves or wake or by your moving 
around

in your boat.

The built-in seaworthiness and stability of folding kayaks tend to make 
them 
safe boats on open water, especially for the majority of sea kayakers 
who have

not developed expert skills or been able to keep these constantly honed. 
The 
superb open-water handling function of a foldable results from design; 
it is
not
so dependent on operator skills as, say, a narrow Greenland style 
hardshell. 
Your learning curve in a foldable is less sharp, allowing you to reach 
skill 
levels that enable you to handle rougher conditions more quickly.

********

How do folding kayaks compare in efficiency, performance, and speed with 
hardshell boats?

"Common wisdom", again, says that folding kayaks are typically less of a 
"performance boat" than hardshell kayaks. This is only partially true 
and 
requires some examination.

Folding kayaks are not all inherently slow; their models run a range of 
speeds

just as hardshell models do. Real life experience and races in which a 
mix of 
hardshells and foldables participate tend to indicate that foldables are 
as
fast
or faster than about 80% of hardshell kayaks. If you are in a folding 
kayak on
a
club trip or paid tour, you will not find that every hardshell will be 
ahead
of 
you. Only some might.

Much depends on conditions. In absolutely flat, calm water, foldables, 
which 
tend to be wider, are a bit less efficient to paddle, i.e. you may have 
to put

more effort into your stroke to accelerate and maintain the same 
constant
speed 
as a narrower hardshell boat. As conditions get rougher, though, the 
inherent 
stability and seaworthiness of their design makes them the more 
efficient
craft. 
You can concentrate on your forward paddling for a high speed-made-good; 
in a 
hardshell you would likely need to shorten your stroke or skim your 
paddle in
a 
semi-brace to stabilize your boat, which would rob you of some forward 
speed 
efficiency.

If performance means that a kayak easily allows you to Eskimo roll, use 
a 
sculling brace, and the like, then most folding kayaks do lack 
"performance." 

You'll generally find it harder to do such tricks in a foldable, except 
for in

of the narrower ones, but since such skills are not as necessary to keep 
a 
folding kayak upright as they are in a hardshell under extreme 
conditions, 
"performance" is almost a moot point for open-water paddling, unless 
it's an 
objective in itself.

********

Are folding kayaks delicate or damage-prone?

Not necessarily. You should treat the hull of a folding kayak in much 
the same

way as you would treat a fiberglass kayak, i.e. you avoid dragging it on
gravel 
beaches and the like. The frames can take a lot of punishment. Parts 
don't 
readily break because both wooden and aluminum frames have enough flex 
in them

to absorb shock and avoid cracking. If conditions are severe enough to 
crack a

frame member of a foldable, they are also likely to crack or cause 
fissures in
a
fiberglass hull, or put some serious dents in a plastic one.

Folding kayaks are tough enough to be used by the military of some 20 
nations.

These boats handle the punishment that special forces tend to dish out 
while 
keeping crews alive to complete their missions. Simply put, if the boats
weren't
up to the rigors of special operations, the military would not entrust 
their 
highly trained personnel to them, period.

Folding kayaks tend to be long-lived. It is not unusual to see 25 year 
old
hulls
still going strong. Frames have proven to last 50 years or more with 
only a 
modicum of care.

********

Do they cost more than hardshells?

Initially many folding kayaks carry a higher price tag than similar
hardshells. 
Most are considerably costlier than plastic models, but the price
differentials 
are not so great when compared to top-of-the-line fiberglass hardshells, 
especially ones made of kevlar and other special materials. When 
considering 
cost, your decision also should be related to other factors such as 
useful
life,
depreciation, and the like.

Folding kayaks tend to last longer than hardshells. Hulls on foldables 
are
good 
for 25 years and more, whereas plastic boats are good for perhaps a 
dozen
years,
and fiberglass will last about 15 to 20 years. You can replace a hull on 
a 
foldable to give it a second life; you can't on a hardshell.

Depreciation on foldables is absurdly low. You can see this in the 
prices of 
used ones versus used hardshells, which reflect the relative useful life 
of
the 
boats. It is not unusual to see a 10-year-old used foldable sell for 
more than

the price the original owner paid for it. Hardshells, on the other hand, 
sell 
for only a fraction of their original price after 5 to 10 years.

********

What are the best materials for the frame and skin in a folding kayak?

There are no "best" materials. In frames you have a choice between 
foldables 
with all wooden frames and foldables with aluminum long pieces combined 
with 
cross pieces made of a range of materials including aluminum, 
polyethylene, 
polycarbonate, and fiberglass filled nylon. All of the materials have 
their 
pluses and minuses.

Avoid listening to any of the common wisdoms about the materials. Wooden
frames 
don't necessarily need more maintenance than aluminum, as you may have 
heard, 
and aluminum isn't a problem to fix in the field, again something that 
is
often 
said.

Buy a foldable with a wooden frame because you like the boat or you have 
a 
passion for wood and its feel. The same is true for one with an aluminum
frame, 
i.e. follow your heart and/or the seat of your pants.

********

Is assembly of folding kayaks difficult?  How long does it take?

Much depends on the model. Some can be assembled in about 10 to 15 
minutes
once 
you get the hang of it. Others can take a half hour or more. For the 
record,
the
fastest assembly of a folding kayak, a double Klepper, is a little over 
4 
minutes starting from the parts being in their bags.

It should be noted that you don't have to assemble and disassemble a 
folding 
kayak around each outing. They can be left assembled for years if you 
have a 
place to store them that way. They can be cartopped like any hardshell.
Storage 
and cartopping will do no harm to the boats.

********

Where do I get more information on foldables?

Publications
-----------------------------------------------------------------

The Complete Folding Kayaker, by Ralph Diaz, McGraw-Hill (Ragged 
Mountain
Press)
1994.

Folding Kayaker newsletter
PO Box 0754
New York, NY 10024
212-724-5069
Internet:  TO BE UPDATED WHEN I CHANGE SERVICE PROVIDER
-> author of this portion of the FAQ; he will respond to all e-mail, 
phone
calls
   and snail mail.


Manufacturers
-----------------------------------------------------------------

Feathercraft
1244 Cartwright St.
Granville Island
Vancouver, BC, Canada V6H 3R8
604-681-8437
Canadian company that makes a double (K-2) and several sizes of singles 
including a Greenland styled model being introduced in Spring 1995. Most
popular
kayak is the K-Light, which weighs as little as 29 lb.

Folbot
PO Box 70877
Charleston, SC 29415
800-744-3483
US company makes a double and a single plus some accessories such as 
boat
carts,
sails, etc. The models are the least expensive of the major 
manufacturers.

Kayak Lab
P. O. Box 3162

_
                                                                                         

Wayland Square
Providence, Rhode Island 02906
Inexpensive, around the price of Folbots. One single and one double 
model 
available.

Klepper
100 Cadillac Drive  #117
Sacramento, CA 95825
916-921-9411
800-323-3525
North American headquarters for German companythat makes a range of 
foldables.

Oldest kayak manufacturer in the world and a principal supplier to the
military 
as well as outfitters. Boats are pricey.

Nautiraid USA
PO Box 2011
New York, NY 10011
800-KAYAK-99
North American for French company that makes a range of folding kayaks. 
Excellent quality at a price between Folbot and Klepper.

Pouch USA
6155 Mt. Aukum Road
Somerset, CA 95684
916-626-8647
German foldables from the former East Germany.  Just above Folbot in 
price.
Wood frames and vinyl type hulls.  A single and a double available.

Seavivor
576 South Arlington Avenue
Des Plaines, Illinois 60016
708-297-5953
Expensive boats, high performace. These boats have no air sponsons and 
can be rolled and sculled like a hardshell. Singles and doubles 
available.

************************************************************************
******
**

Section 6: hypothermia
Author: Sam Crowley

What is hypothermia?

Hypothermia is the lowering of the body's core temperature. There are 
two
types 
of hypothermia, acute and chronic. Acute hypothermia is the rapid 
lowering of 
the body's core temp. Chronic hypothermia is the slow lowering of the 
body's 
core temp. If the temperature drop occurs in less than 4 hours it is 
acute, 
otherwise it is chronic. Acute hypothermia is also called immersion
hypothermia 
and typically occurs when a person is in cold water. It is important to 
note
the
difference between the two since treatment will be different. 
Hypothermia is 
considered severe when the body's core temperature drops below 90 
degrees F
and 
mild from normal body temperature to 90 degrees F. 

A difference between acute and chronic hypothermia is the severity of
something 
called afterdrop. This is the continued dropping of the body's core
temperature 
after the person has been brought to a warm place. Afterdrop complicates 
treating severe hypothermia.

Hypothermia is the biggest killer of sea kayakers. Many of its victims 
are 
unprepared for the cold water exposure that induces it. Water conducts 
heat
away
at 20-25 times the rate that air removes heat. This is one reason why an 
exposure to cold water at a certain temperature is more traumatic than
exposure 
to air at the same temperature.

Sometimes a person will not know they are hypothermic since people 
typically
do 
not notice it in themselves. It is important for people in a group to 
keep an 
eye on their companions for signs of hypothermia (this includes group 
leaders 
and guides). Sometimes a person will appear physically and mentally okay 
and 
will refuse treatment because they claim they are okay. 

Exposure to cold does not automatically induce hypothermia, it typically 
will 
take time to develop unless there is exposure to very cold water or 
there is
no 
protection (wetsuit/drysuit) against the cold.

********

How can one tell if somebody is hypothermic?

It can be difficult to tell if someone is hypothermic without actually
measuring
their core temperature. Measuring a persons core temperature  in the 
field 
requires a rectal thermometer and is typically not practical. Therefore
symptoms
must be relied on. Hypothermia affects people in different ways and no 
one 
symptom is reliable to indicate if a person is hypothermic. 

The following lists the body core temperature and its typical signs and 
symptoms. Not all hypothermia victims exhibit all of these symptoms, it 
varies

from person to person. Note symptoms will change as the person's core 
temperature changes. 

core temp.     signs and symptoms
99 to 97F      Normal temperature range
(37 to 36C)    Shivering may begin

97 to 95F      Cold sensation, goose bumps, unable to perform complex 
tasks
(36 to 35C)    with hands, shivering can be mild to severe, skin numb

95 to 93F      Shivering intense, muscle incoordination becomes 
apparent,
(35 to 34C)    movements slow and labored, stumbling pace, mild 
confusion,
               may appear alert, unable to walk 30 ft. line properly

93 to 90F      Violent shivering persists, difficulty speaking, sluggish
(34 to 32C)    thinking, amnesia starts to appear and may be retrograde,
               gross muscle movements sluggish, unable to use hands,
               stumbles frequently, difficulty speaking, signs of 
depression

90 to 86F      Shivering stops in chronic hypothermia, exposed skin blue 
or
(32 to 30C)    puffy, muscle coordination very poor with inability to 
walk,
               confusion, incoherent, irrational behavior, BUT MAY BE 
ABLE
               TO MAINTAIN POSTURE AND THE APPEARANCE OF PSYCHOLOGICAL 
               CONTACT.

86 to 82F      Muscles severely rigid, semiconscious, stupor, loss of 
(30 to 27.7C)  psychological contact, pulse and respiration slow, pupils
               can dilate

82 to 78F      Unconsciousness, heart beat and respiration erratic, 
pulse 
(27 to 25.5C)  and heart beat may be inapparent, muscle tendon reflexes
               cease

78 to 75F      Pulmonary edema, failure of cardiac and respiratory 
centers,
(25 to 24C)    probable death, DEATH MAY OCCUR BEFORE THIS LEVEL

64F (17.7C)    Lowest recorded temperature of chronic hypothermia 
survivor

This table is from a book by Wm. Forgey called _Hypothermia-Death by
Exposure_. 

********

Am I hypothermic if I am shivering and/or my hands/feet are cold?

Mild shivering and cold hands/feet does not indicate you are severely 
hypothermic. These signs do mean you are losing more heat than you are
producing
and your body is adjusting its temperature. Shivering is one way your 
body 
produces heat to warm itself. Cold hands and feet indicate your body is
fighting
the cold by reducing the flow of blood to the extremities. Reduced blood 
flow
to
the extremities helps to reduce heat loss and helps maintain the body's 
core 
temperature. Do take these signs as a warning.

Uncontrolled shivering does mean you are hypothermic. A lack of 
shivering does

not mean you are not hypothermic since a symptom of severe hypothermia 
(core 
temperature less than 90 degrees F) is the lack of shivering. 

********

How is hypothermia treated?

Mild hypothermia where the body core temperature is greater than 90F can 
be 
treated by warming the person up. This can be exercise, replacing of wet 
clothing with dry clothing, getting to a warm place, getting the victim 
out of

the wind, etc. One way of treating hypothermia in the field is to strip 
the 
clothes off of the victim and place them into a sleeping bag with one or 
two 
other stripped people. This provides the victim with a source of heat 
that
will 
gradually warm them up. If wet clothing cannot be replaced, cover them 
with a 
layer of non-breathing material such as a rain suit and then cover them 
with a

dry layer of insulation. Covering them with a rain suit will prevent 
further 
cooling by evaporation and keep the dry layer of insulation from getting 
wet. 

Even though materials such as polypropelene, capilene, polyester fleece, 
wool,

etc. do insulate when wet, they are not as efficient when compared to 
dry 
clothing. There is heat loss due to evaporation and conduction when 
these 
clothes are wet. Stay away from cotton clothing, cotton kills in cold 
environments because it does not insulate when wet. 

Severe hypothermia is where the body's core temperature is below 90F. A 
person

with severe hypothermia needs to get to a hospital as soon as possible. 
They 
should be considered a stretcher case and handled very carefully. Rough
handling
can induce an irregular heartbeat that can kill them. If they cannot be 
taken 
right away, then treat them like you would somebody with mild 
hypothermia. The

one thing that will not help them is exercise because at this stage they 
have 
depleted their energy reserves so much that they cannot even shiver. 
Exercise 
may even kill them by inducing an irregular heartbeart. 

A hypothermia victim should not be considered dead unless they are warm 
and 
dead. Even though a hypothermia victim may appear lifeless, get them to 
an 
emergency room as quickly as possible. Their pulse and breathing maybe 
so 
shallow that they cannot be detected.

********

What is the best defense against hypothermia?

Be prepared. Wear clothing that is appropriate for immersion in the 
water and 
not the air temperature. Eat properly to keep your energy levels up, get
enough 
rest and drink enough water to maintain proper hydration. Fatigue and 
dehydration help to induce hypothermia when exposed to cold. Most 
kayakers
that 
get hypothermia did not expect to end up in the water. Be prepared for 
cold 
water immersion when paddling on cold water.

Stay off the water if you are unsure the conditions may exceed your 
abilities.
This includes your ability to do a self rescue or assist in the rescue 
of 
another paddler. Be aware of the weather forecast and what the weather 
is 
currently doing. A weather forecast is not always 100% accurate. 

Remember that extremely cold water can cause your hands to become 
useless in a

relatively short time (less than 20 minutes) even while properly 
dressed. This

will complicate operating a pump, pulling on a spray skirt, firing off 
flares,

radioing for help, etc. This may result in your inability to signal for 
help,
do
a self rescue or assist in your rescue or the rescue of others.

********

What is vertigo?

Vertigo is not hypothermia but it is related to cold water exposure. 
Vertigo
is 
the sudden loss of balance and orientation to one's surroundings.

Vertigo is caused when one ear drum is at a different temperature than 
the
other
and since your inner ear affects your balance, different inner ear
temperatures 
affect your balance. A vertigo study was done where they would induce 
vertigo
by
injecting cold water into a persons ear. The head position they found 
that 
induced vertigo the most is the position of your head when you are 
starting
your
roll. Vertigo can be prevented by ear plugs and it can be cured by 
allowing
your
inner ears regain equal temperatures which occurs after a few minutes. 
Vertigo

does not occur in all immersions into cold water.

Vertigo can cause your roll to fail no matter how good it is. Have a 
backup 
rescue method to your roll. If your roll fails, are you prepared to wet 
exit
and
be exposed to cold water?

********

What is cold shock?

Cold shock is not hypothermia but it is caused by sudden immersion in 
cold 
water. It is an involuntary gasp reflex followed by hyperventilation. 
These 
affect the ability to breath normally and can cause the breathing in of 
water 
that can result in drowning. Typically, there is one gasp reflex. The 
hyperventilation can last 10 to 15 minutes. It does not occur in all 
cold
water 
immersions.

Cold shock can complicate a rescue. The gasp reflex can interfere with 
ones
roll
due to the involuntary breathing in of water. The hyperventilation will
prevent 
a person from holding their breath for very long complicating the 
ability to
do 
a reentry and roll. The hyperventilation can also cause panic in some 
people
due
to the inability to breath properly and/or the breathing in of water in 
rough 
seas.

********

Is this information meant to scare me away from cold water?

No, but it is meant to help educate people on the dangers of cold water. 
This 
will hopefully result in the people who do paddle in cold water to 
realize the

risk they are taking and to take the proper precautions. 

************************************************************************
******
**

Section 7: history
Author: Sam Crowley(historical), Alex Ferguson(modern)

"Many people nowadays are vastly impressed with the greatness of our 
age, with

all the inventions and the progress of which we daily hear, and which 
appear 
indisputably to exalt the highly-gifted white race far over all others. 
These 
people would learn much by paying close attention to the development of 
the 
Eskimos, and to the tools and inventions by aid of which they obtain the 
necessaries of life among natural surroundings which place such 
pitifully
small 
means at their disposal."
- Fridtjof Nansen from Eskimo Life published in 1894

***************************

What does kayak mean?

Hunters boat. The boats primary purpose was to hunt animals on inland 
lakes,
rivers and the sea. In many places where the native kayakers lived they 
had to

turn to the water for food because the land was not fertile enough to 
support 
their population. It was also used for transportation across open water 
and 
rivers. Most but not all kayaks are considered seaworthy. 

It was made of seal skins and wood. The wood was driftwood that was 
collected 
off of beaches. Many of the areas where kayaks were paddled are void of 
the
land based raw materials used in making birchbark canoes or dugout 
canoes. 

Archaeologists have found evidence indicating kayaks to be at least 4000 
years

old. 

The word kayak appears in literature spelled different ways: kyak, 
kyack,
kaiak,
qajaq.

********

What does baidarka mean?

It refers to the double and triple kayaks developed by the Alaskan 
Aleut. It
was
used for hunting and transporting those unable to paddle. Some groups
considered
it a waste to have the second paddler be a capable paddler. The triples 
are 
considered to have appeared after the Europeans appeared. The Russians 
are 
thought to have forced the Aleut to make a third hole so they could 
travel
along
with them and not have to paddle. The triples were also used to 
transport 
missionaries.

********

What is an umiak?

An umiak is an open decked boat made with seal skins and wood. It was 
paddled
with single bladed paddles and typically had more than one paddler. It 
ranged
in
size from 17 feet to 60 feet. The umiak was typically seaworthy.

Some groups lived nomadically to follow animal migrations. In these 
groups,
the 
umiak was used primarily for transporting household goods, children, 
elderly
and
those unable to paddle a kayak. The women of the village would paddle 
the
umiak 
since the men were paddling their kayaks. In other groups it was used 
for 
hunting walrus and whale. It was paddled by men and sometimes women 
during
these
hunts. 

It is thought the kayak originally started out as a decked over umiak 
and 
evolved into its traditional form.

It is also called a baydar.

********

Did all native kayaking groups use the two bladed paddle?

No. Some groups used the two bladed paddle exclusively and some groups 
used
the 
one bladed paddle exclusively. It many times depended on the boats 
design.
Some 
groups that used two bladed paddles also kept one or two one bladed 
paddles
with
them to use for stealthier paddling when hunting or for use as a spare.

There were groups that used the single bladed paddle to roll. 

********

Did all native kayakers know how to roll?

No. The Greenland Inuits and the Alaskan Aleuts were well known for 
their
rolls 
but not all native kayakers knew how to roll or needed a roll.

The Greenlanders were the masters of the roll. Their narrow boats, the 
conditions they paddled in and unexpected complications during hunting
required 
them to develop numerous different rolls. In addition to the typical 
rolling 
with a paddle, numerous "trick" rolls were known such as rolling with 
the
paddle
held by one hand, using a harpoon shaft or using just an open or closed 
hand. 

_
                                                                                

The reasons for this is during a hunt the harpoon line could tangle and 
upset 
the boat or an injured animal sometimes attacked the hunter. In either 
case if

the hunter is holding something he does not want to drop (like a knife) 
or the

paddle is temporarily stowed, he had to use these rolls. The 
Greenlanders also

used the bow rescue described below.

Some native kayakers used several different methods instead of a roll. 
One is 
the bow rescue where a paddling partners bow is used to pull one self 
up. This

technique relied heavily on somebody being close by. In another 
technique the 
paddler pulled themselves into the boat and breathed the air inside the 
boat 
until somebody showed up and a bow rescue could be performed. This 
technique 
required a boat one could crawl into and someone showing up before the 
oxygen 
inside the boat was used up. Certain groups added ballast to their boats 
to
make
them stable, the weight varied from 50-100 pounds.

********

How were kayaks made?

Driftwood would be collected from beaches. The wood would be formed 
using the 
tools they had. Iron is not found in the Arctic and was introduced when
trading 
began with the western cultures. Obsidian or flint was fashioned into
necessary 
tools. Wood used was typically fir, pine, spruce and willow. The 
addition of 
iron-based tools did decrease the amount of time spent building a kayak 
since 
iron does not dull as quickly as traditional materials. Historians are 
not in 
agreement if iron improved the quality of the kayak or not. Peterson, in 
_Skinboats of Greenland_,  presents some information that it did.

Seal skins would then be sewn onto a complete frame. Typical skin used 
was
from 
the bearded seal but some groups did use the sea lion, caribou and 
walrus
skins. 
The hair was removed from the skins. The skins were treated with oil for 
waterproofness. Oil typically had to be applied every 4-8 days depending 
on
the 
skin used. Care was taken that when a boat was in daily use, that it was
removed
from the water and allowed to dry once a day.

Sinew was used to lash the frame and sew the skins. The seam on the 
skins was 
waterproof because the stitches did not completely pass through the 
skin.

********

What is the difference between a modern kayak and a traditional kayak?

There are obvious differences in the materials used. In addition a 
modern
rigid 
kayak typically has several added safety features such as bulkheads and
hatches.

Skegs and rudders appeared on some traditional kayaks but the design was
thought
to be influenced by western cultures. Most of the features used in 
modern hull

designs can be found in traditional kayak hull designs. The modern skin 
boat
is 
very similar to a traditional kayak although the modern day skin used is 
typically waterproofed canvas.

It is important to realize the significant change in the boats use from 
traditional use to modern use. No longer is the boat used for hunting 
but 
instead for recreation. This represents a fundamental change that has 
affected

the boat design and its equipment.

********

Where did the native kayakers live?

In the arctic of North America from the Aleutian Islands to the East 
coast of 
Greenland. This included southern Siberia, the Bering Strait and 
Northern 
Canada. Some groups were nomadic and were constantly searching for 
better 
hunting grounds. Other groups were not nomadic and lived year round in 
the
same 
location. Some locations had only 90 days a year for open water and 
other 
locations had open water year round.

********

Were all the boat designs the same?

No, the designs were specialized for the local conditions and needs of 
the 
hunters. Some areas had exposed coasts and other areas were relatively 
protected. Some groups had to transport their kayaks over a long 
distance to
the
water and other groups were right next to the water. Transporting the 
dead 
animals back to the village was a problem solved in different ways by 
hunters
in
different areas. 

One historian breaks seagoing kayak designs into five basic forms with 
minor 
changes for local conditions. The different designs are found in 
Greenland, 
Baffin Island, the Bering Strait south to the Aleutians, southeastern 
Siberia 
and the Aleutian islands. 

********

What did they wear?

They used jackets made from skins which were typically waterproof. The 
wrists 
and face openings were drawn tight for waterproofness. The waist fit 
tightly 
around the cockpit coaming. These formed watertight seals so water did 
not
enter
while performing a roll or punching through waves. The jacket used by 
the 
Greenlanders helped provide buoyancy when sculling. On warm days they 
used the

equivalent of a spray skirt instead of the jacket. They used mittens 
made of 
skin to keep their hands warm. Some groups wore hats with a large brim 
for 
protection from the sun and salt spray.

********

What animals were hunted?

Caribou on the inland waters and virtually any sea mammal at sea. The 
sea 
mammals included the seal, sea otter, walrus and whale. Fish such as 
halibut
and
assorted birds were also hunted. All the groups did not hunt all of 
these 
animals. Some groups avoided hunting certain animals for practical 
and/or 
spiritual reasons.

Sometimes the umiak was used to hunt together with the kayaks. 

********

How did they get the animals back to the village?

It depended on the type of kayak used. Some groups would carry the 
animal on
top
of their deck. This method required a boat with a large volume so it 
could 
handle a 150+ pound animal (typically seal) on top of it. Another method 
was
to 
land and butcher the animal on shore and stuff the butchered meat into 
the
boat.
This method relied on there being enough volume inside the boat for the 
meat.
A 
gaff hook was used to retrieve the meat since they did not have any 
hatches. 
Another method was to tow the animal. Since a freshly killed animal 
would
sink, 
air would be blown into the animal and a wooden stopper used as a plug 
or an
air
bladder would be tied to the animal. They would be tied along side the 
boat. 
Floats were used so the dead animal could be cast loose and later 
recovered in

case another animal was spotted or the sea conditions became too rough. 
In the

case of birds or fish, they were often carried under deck lines and fish 
were 
sometimes towed after being killed.

********

What hunting tools were used?

A harpoon was used together with a rope and an air bladder. The harpoon 
tip is

attached to the air bladder with the rope. The harpoon tip was 
detachable from

the harpoon shaft to allow the animal to thrash about and not break the 
shaft.

The rope was typically made of seal skin. The rope would be coiled on 
the
front 
deck and allowed to play out once an animal was harpooned. 

A javelin was also used and is similar to the harpoon. The difference is 
the
tip
and air bladder stay attached to the shaft with rope. 

The harpoon used a larger air bladder  than a javelin which allowed 
larger 
marine animals to be hunted. The harpoons air bladders also were used 
for
adding
floatation to the kayak in case of puncture or water leakage. They were 
sometimes used in rescues.

A lance was used to kill an animal that was close by. 

A knife was carried to kill a wounded animal or to prepare it to be 
taken in
to 
land.

Bird darts were spears with three or four forward slanted spikes. The 
spikes
allowed a bird to be brought down if the spear tip did not penetrate the 
bird 
and instead slid along its body. 

A throwing stick (sometimes referred to as a throwing board or an 
atlatl) was 
used to boost the range of a spear or harpoon. 

A white blind was used by some hunters to camouflage their upper bodies 
so
they 
could sneak up on resting seals. 

All these could be carried on the deck and ready for immediate use. The 
deck 
lines were skin with toggles and bone used to fasten items. 

Bows and arrows typically were not used. The reasons for this is the
difficulty 
of handling one in a kayak and water would cause the bow string to 
stretch 
rendering the bow useless. 

********

Was kayak hunting dangerous?

Very dangerous.

Some times a wounded animal wound attack the kayak. Walrus and whales 
were 
especially dangerous when injured. Some times a walrus would attack a 
kayak
even
if the kayak was not hunting it. Sometimes the harpoon line would tangle 
and 
upset the kayak. 

It is important to remember these people had no thermal protection 
against the

cold waters when they wet exited since there was no equivalent to the 
wetsuit
or
drysuit (although in Greenland there was an equivalent to the modern 
drysuit
but
that was only used by Umiak crews hunting whales). The water temperature 
they 
paddled in could be as low as 27 degrees F since saltwater has a lower
freezing 
point than freshwater. Glaciers helped to lower the water temperature by
calving
icebergs into the water. To wet exit the boat was considered suicide by 
many 
groups. Also, there was no equivalent to the modern PFD.

In South Greenland in 1888 there were 162 deaths. 90 were males and 24 
of the 
males died while kayaking. In 1889, there were 272 deaths. 152 were male 
and
24 
died while kayaking. The population consisted of 5614 of which there 
were 2591

males.

********

What happened to the kayaking cultures?

As with most native cultures, outside cultural influences changed the 
native 
culture and the peoples need for kayaking. Manufactured goods slowly 
replaced 
the traditional materials. Lumber instead of driftwood for the boat 
frames,
iron
for the spear tips, the gun replaced the hunting tools, and eventually 
the
power
boat replaced the kayak. In some cases the depletion of the local 
animals due
to
overhunting caused a decline in kayaking.

Today traditional kayaking is kept alive by schools run in Greenland and 
the 
Aleution Islands. Much of the traditional kayaking technology and skills 
have
been lost. Some boat designs survive only in drawings made by early 
explorers 
that did not have any dimensions. Many kayaks stored in museums were
improperly 
stored and have been unintentionally destroyed. All this makes 
comparison of
the
modern kayak and its equipment against the traditional kayak and its 
equipment

difficult or impossible. 

********

What is the history of the development of the modern kayaks?

The modern sea kayaks can trace their ancestry via two paths. The first 
type
are
those kayaks that are close copies of the Southwest Greenland kayaks.

In the summer of 1959, Ken Taylor made a private one-man expedition to 
Western

Greenland and brought  a kayak back to Scotland. This particular kayak 
excited

special interest because it was a more moderate example of the West 
Greenland
type.

This kayak has been copied a number of times, most noted being the kayak 
built

by Geoff Blackford in 1971. Blackford redesigned the boat to fit his own 
particular dimensions, retaining the upturned stern, and ending up with 
a 
plywood model 17 ft (5.2 m) long with a 21 in. (533 mm) beam. In all 
other 
respects the craft was identical to Ken Taylor's boat.

Blackford's craft was used as the plug for a fiberglass mould and 
eventually 
found its way to Frank Goodman of Valley Products who went into 
commercial 
production under the name 'Anas Acuta'.

A noted British mountaineer and exponent of outdoor education, Colin 
Mortlock,

proposed an expedition along the Arctic fiords of Norway to Nordkapp, 
the 
northern-most cape of Europe. Mortlock and his team paddled the Anas 
Acuta 
kayaks around the Isle of Skye but believed that a new sort of boat 
would be 
needed, one that could take huge quantities of supplies without losing 
too
much 
manoeuvreability and seaworthiness.

Eventually Frank Goodman came up with a refined version of the Anas 
Acuta
kayak,
a round bilge version capable of the extra payload required, and the
'Nordkapp'
was born. Many modern boats can trace their design lineage from this 
root.

The second line of descent for modern kayaks is that of the 'Rob Roy' 
kayaks.

The McGregor "canoe" was built in 1865 to resemble what John McGregor 
thought
he
had seen when looking at sketches of Eskimo kayaks. In shape and size  
it is
fairly similar to a Coaster. The Kleppers were also of a similar style.  
Many
of
the kayaks designed in the Pacific Northwest of North America have their 
roots

in this basic shape.

If the designs of the Greenland and Alaskan kayaks are studied, it is 
obvious 
that there are a wide range of designs. Each has evolved as suitable for 
the 
region that it comes from. From this one can see why some designs are 
popular
in
one region and not in another, the Nordkapp style in Britain and New 
Zealand
and
the beamier, flatter boats in northwestern North America. Even in a 
country as

small as New Zealand there can be regional preferences, a highly 
rockered boat

in the north and flatter, lower windage boats in the South Island, for
example.

Wood and wood/fabric were common up until 1950's when fiberglass was
introduced.
This was followed by plastic in 1984, the Chinook being the first of the 
rotomolded boats.

************************************************************************
******
**

Section 8: controversial topics

First a disclaimer: Your FAQ editor is completely un-opinionated. Do not 
argue

with him about these topics. Fill each other's email boxes, use the 
newsgroup,

these are INTENDED TO PROMOTE DISCUSSION. However, if you have other 
topics
that
you feel belong in this section, let me know.

1. Rudders

Some will argue that a good boat does not need a rudder, that they are 
subject

to breakage and you should not learn to use them as a crutch. Often 
these are 
the same people who put skegs on their boats because they are difficult 
to
make 
go straight in certain sea conditions.

Others will argue that a rudder is a tool that improves the safety and 
convenience of a boat, and not having one is pig-headed and blind to the
utility
of the device. They do admit, though, that the rudder had better be well 
constructed and durable.

********

2. Rolling

A roll is an excellent self-rescue tool, and a good first line of 
defence to
an 
accidental tip. It does not absolve you from needing to learn other 
means of 
self-rescue, because in sea kayaking whatever tipped you over (big 
waves, high

winds, fatigue) is still there when you try to roll, and if it was bad 
enough
to
tip you over in the first place, it may make your roll fail as well.

********

3. British boat mystique

The Brit boats (exemplified by Frank Goodman's Nordkapp and Derek 
Hutchinson's
Baidarka Explorer) have a certain mystique among sea kayakers. They are
designs
proven in rough seas and long expeditions, and they have a number of 
features
like built in bilge pumps, waterproof hatches and bulkheads, and 
recessed deck

line fittings that were safety innovations when they were first 
introduced.

They are tippy, have small hatches and small cockpits, no rudders (see 
#1 
above), and a cadre of devoted paddlers who seem to the unwashed masses 
to
look 
down on other, lesser boats (gross generalization alert!)  Be cautious 
of
being 
talked into a boat you may not like by an enthusiast who will assure you 
that 
this is an 'expert' boat that you will have to 'grow into'. Some are 
also 
quite old designs that may not perform as well as some newer boats.

There is a definite character to British-designed boats, born from the
personalities that designed and built them, and the seas they were meant 
to be
used on. Choose wisely and well.

************************************************************************
******

_
                                                                                                                              

*

Section 9: references

Books
-----

Equipment, Techniques, and Instruction
--------------------------------------

British Canoe Union Instructor's manual

Burch, David. Fundamentals of Kayak Navigation. Seattle: Pacific Search 
Press,
1987.

Diaz, Ralph. The Complete Folding Kayaker. McGraw-Hill (Ragged Mountain 
Press)

1994.

Dowd, John. Sea Kayaking-A Manual for Long-Distance Touring. Seattle: 
University of Washington Press, 1988.

Foster, Nigel. Sea Kayaking.

Harrison, David. Sea Kayaking Basics. Hearst Marine Books, 1993.

Hutchinson, Derek. Derek C. Hutchinson's Guide to Sea Kayaking. Seattle: 
Pacific Search Press, 1985.

Hutchinson, Derek. Sea Canoeing. 3rd ed. London: A. & C. Black 
(Publishers) 
Ltd., 1984.

Hutchinson, Derek. Eskimo Rolling. Camden, ME: Ragged Mountain Press, 
1992.

Jeffs, Howard. Practical Guide to Sea Kayaking.

Petersen, H. C. Instruction in Kayak Building. Roskilde, Denmark: 
Greenland Provincial Museum and Viking Ship Museum, 1982.

Price, Brian _Fundamentals Of Coastal Kayaking Manual for Instructors_
American Canoe Association National Coastal Kayaking Commitee, 1989

Ramwell, J.J. Sea Touring. Huntingdon, Cambs.: John J. Ramwell, 1976.

Sanders, Williams. Kayak Touring. Stackpole Books, 1984.

Seidman, D. The Essential Sea Kayaker. Camden, ME: Ragged Mountain 
Press,
1992.

Washburne, Randel. Coastal Kayaking Manual.

Adventure
---------

Brower, Kenneth. The Starship and the Canoe. Harper & Row, 1978.

Caffyn, Paul. Cresting the Restless Waves-North Island Kayak Odyssey. 
Wellington, NZ: New Zealand Canoeing Association and Paul Caffyn, 1987.

Caffyn, Paul. Dark Side of the Wave-Stewart Island Kayak Odyssey. 
Wellington, NZ: New Zealand Canoeing Association, 1987.

Caffyn, Paul. Dreamtime Voyage. RD 1, Runanga, Westland, NZ: 
Kayak Dundee Press, 1994.

Caffyn, Paul. Obscured by Waves-South Island Canoe Odyssey. Dunedin, NZ:
John Mcindoe, 1979.

Lindemann, Hannes. Alone At Sea. Pollner Verlag, 1993.

Lloyd-Jones, R. Argonauts of the Western Isles, Sea Kayaking off 
Scotland's
West Coast.

Nordby, Will. Seekers of the Horizon: Sea Kayaking Voyages From Around 
the 
World. Globe Pequot Press, 1989.

Phillips, C.E. Lucas. Cockleshell Heroes. Weyman & Sons, 1957.

Rice, Larry. Gathering Paradise: Alaska Wilderness Journeys. Fulcrum
Publishing,
1990.

Rogers, Joel. The Hidden Coast. Alaska Northwest Books, 1991.

Taylor, B. Commitment and Open Crossing.

Theroux, Paul. The Happy Isles of Oceania: Paddling the Pacific. Putnam, 
1992.

Wilson, B. Blazing Paddles.

History
-------

Adney, Edward, & Howard Chapelle. The Bark Canoes and Skin Boats of 
North
America. Washington D.C.; Smithsonian Institution, 1964.

Altenhofer, Ursula and Christian. Der Handernkahn. Pollner Verlag, 1989.

Arima, Eugene Y. Inuit Kayaks in Canada: A Review of Historical Records 
and 
Construction. Ottawa National Museums of Canada, 1987.

Brand, John. The Little Kayak Book-Museum Kayaks: Five Surveys with some 
details of equipment; History of each as far as it is known. Colchester,
Essex: John Brand, 1984.

Chapman, Spencer. Northern Lights. London: Chatto and Windus, 1932.

Chapman, Spencer. Watkins' Last Expedition. London: Chatto and Windus, 
1934.

Dyson, George. Baidarka. Edmonds, WA: Alaska Northwest Publishing 
Company, 
1986.

Kissner, Jack. Foldboat Holidays. Creative Holiday Guides, 1945.

Nansen, Fridtjof. Eskimo Life. London: Longmans, Green and Co., 1893.

Nansen, Fridtjof. Farthest North, Two vols. London: Georege Newnes, 
Ltd., 
1898.

Nansen, Fridtjof. The First Crossing of Greenland. London: Longmans, 
Green 
and Co., 1892.

Peterson, H. C. Skinboats of Greenland. Roskilde, Denmark: 
Greenland Provincial Museum and Viking Ship Museum, 1986.

Zimmerly, David W. Hooper Bay Kayak Construction. Ottawa: National 
Museums
of Canada, 1979.

Zimmerly, David W. QAJAQ-Kayaks of Siberia and Alaska. Juneau, AK: 
Division
of State Museums, 1986.

Guidebooks
----------

Ince, John and Kottner, Hedi. Sea Kayaking Canada's West Coast. Raxas 
Books, 
1982.

Jettmar, Karen. The Alaska River Guide. Alaska Northwest Books, 1993.

Venn, Tamsin. Sea Kayaking Along the New England Coast. Appalachian 
Mountain 
Club, 1991.

Washburne, Randel. Kayak Trips in Puget Sound and the San Juan Islands. 
The
Mountaineers, 1986.

Washburne, Randel. The Coastal Kayaker: Kayak Camping on the Alaska and 
B.C. 
Coast. Globe Pequot Press, 1983.

Other
-----

Anderson, Bob. Stretching. Bolinas, CA: Shelter Publications, 1991.

Bascom, Willard. Waves and Beaches. Doubleday, 1980.

Daniel, Linda. Kayak Cookery-A Handbook of Provisions and Recipes. 
Seattle: 
Pacific Search Press, 1986.

Forgey, Wm. Wilderness Medicine. ICS Books, Inc., Merrilville, IN: 1987.

Forgey, Wm. Hypothermia-Death by Exposure. ICS Books, Inc., Merrilville, 
IN: 
1985.

Ilg, Steve. The Outdoor Athlete. Evergreen, CO: Cordillera Press, 1989.

Roberts, Harry. Movin' Out. Stone Wall Press, 1979.

Trefil, James. A Scientist at the Seashore. Collier Books, 1984.

Tricker, R.A.R. Bores, Breakers, Waves and Wakes. London: Mills & Boon, 
1964.

Wilkerson, James, ed. Hypothermia, Frostbite and Other Cold Injuries, 
Seattle:
The Mountaineers, 1986.

Wilkerson, James. Medicine for Mountaineering, 4th ed. Seattle: The 
Mountaineers, 1992.

Williams, Margaret. The Boater's Weather Guide. Cornell Maritime Press, 
1990.

Magazines
---------

ANorAK
34 East Queens Way
Hampton, VA 23669

Atlantic Coastal Kayaker
Circulation and Advertising Office
29 Burley St.
Wenham, MA 01984
(508) 774-0906

Canoe and Kayak, P.O. Box 3146, Kirkland, WA 98083

Folding Kayaker newsletter
PO Box 0754
New York, NY 10024
212-724-5069
Internet:  rdiaz@ix.netcom.com
-> author of the folding kayak portion of the FAQ; he will respond to 
all 
e-mail, phone calls and snail mail

Paddler Magazine, 4061 Oceanside Blvd., Suite M, Oceanside, CA 92056
(619)630-2293

Sea Kayaker, 7001 Seaview Ave., NW, Suite 135, Seattle, WA 98117. 
(206)789-9536.

Small Boat Journal, P.O. Box 400, Rte. 9 West Bennington, VT 05201.

Videos
------
Greenlanders at Kodiak (John Heath) 38min
    Demonstration of Greenland roll techniques

Qajaq Klubben (John Heath), 80min
    Video from a kayak club in Greenland, showing Greenland paddling and 
    roll techniques. Energetic and fascinating, but narrated in 
Greenlandic!

Palos Brudefaerd (sp), Bob Boucher  

Build Your Own Sea Kayak! (Bob Boucher)
 On building a West Greenland style skin and frame kayak

************************************************************************
******
**

Section 10: clubs, shops, outfitters, manufacturers

California Kayak Friends
Dues: $20 per household
Features: About 500 members, monthly newsletter, day and camping trips,
 library, videos, other goodies.
Contacts: 
    Our Fearless Leader:
 Joanne Turner        (714) 559-5076
    Mailing Address:
 California Kayak Friends
 14252 Culver Drive #A199
 Irvine, CA 92714
    Internet:
        WWW URL:      http://www.intelenet.com/clubs/ckf
        Mailing list: ckf-request@intelenet.com

********

Chicago Area Sea Kayaking Association (CASKA)
Dues: $15 individual, $20 family.
Features: Over 200 members, bimonthly newsletter.
Contact:  

********

Florida Sea Kayaking Association
Dues: $15 individual, $20 family.
Features: Over 200 members, bimonthly newsletter, day and camping trips.
 Chapters in many parts of the state. Kayaking clinics (kayaking 101,
 rescues, rolling, surfing, bracing, Greenland techniques, and others).
Contact: Gregory Stamer (president)
 (407) 295-5183
 stamer@fang.att.com

********

N.A.W.T.C.- - North American Water Trails Conference

There is some exciting news for paddlers in seeking places to paddle.  
An
outgrowth of the first international conference held in the Fall of 93 
on
the Hudson River, the concept of a continent wide system of water trails 
is
rapidly moving forward to the reality stage.

The NAWTC is a coalition of private, non-profit, and public
benefit organizations and agencies, who share a common desire;
to build a truly contiguous North American Water Trail system for the
boating public and promoting Ecotourism (a balance of resource
protection, recreational access and user responsibility).

NAWTC is truly national in scope as can be seen by its volunteer 
officers:
(1) President:  David Getchell,Sr. - Maine Island Trail Association,  
(2)
Vice-President: Franz Gimmler- Chesapeake Water Trail, (3) Secretary:
Sandie Nelson - Washington State Water Trails, (4) Treasurer: Craig 
Poole -
Hudson River Waterway Association.

Some of these areas already have detailed printed guides to paddling on
their trails such as The Maine Island Trail and the Hudson Waterway's
Paddlers Guide, both of which detail launching spots, camping 
possibilities
and advice on local conditions and safety concerns.

To request more information or be added to the NAWTC E-mail list send 
your
request to:  cpoole@earth.cnct.com.

Official address is:
North American Water Trails Conference, NAWTC
c/o David Getchell, Sr.
RR 1,  Box 3355
Appleton, Me.   04862

************************************************************************
******
**

Section 11: places to paddle

The Everglades
Getting there: From Atlanta, I-75 south to Naples, FL. US 41 from Naples 
to
the
Everglades City junction. Follow signs into town and on to the ranger 
station.
Features: Open waters of the Gulf of Mexico, and mangrove and cypress 
swamps,
the 'river of grass'. Warm weather and wildlife. Bugs and alligators. 
Fishing.
Best time to visit: Winter, the closer to the solstice, the better. 
Summer is
very buggy.
More information: Gulf Coast Ranger Station, Everglades City, FL  33929, 
(813) 695-3311

In the Great Lakes:

Isle Royale National Park, Lake Superior (Houghton, MI)
Apostle Islands National Lake Shore, Lake Superior (Bayfield, WI)
Pictured Rocks National Lake Shore, Lake Superior (Manistique, MI)
Door County and the Grand Traverse Island group, Lake Michigan (N. of 
Green
Bay,
WI or E. of Escanaba, MI)
Porcupine Mountains State Park, Lake Superior (N. of Ironwood, MI)
Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore and the Manitou Islands, Lake 
Michigan
(Traverse City, MI)
the Beaver Island Group, Lake Michigan (Charlevoix, MI)
Wilderness State Park, Lake Michigan (Mackinac, MI)
The St.Mary River between Lake Superior and Lake Michigan (Sault Ste. 
Marie,
MI)
Georgian Bay, Lake Huron
Lake Superior North Shore, Pukasawa and the Black Bay Islands.
The Bass Island group in Lake Erie.
-- 
Todd Leigh - Motorola Inc. Land-Mobile Products Sector -
leigh@ssd.comm.mot.com

                                                                                                                   
