As a make-Up Professional, I know the important role make-up and
hair play in our field. Not only does it  smooth out  one's
complexion, it also creates a feeling and a mood. It gives a
person a Style ; their own personal identity and identification
in public, and most of all, the confidence to go in front of a
camera.
    For over ten years, I have been  working as a professional
makeup artist and hair dresser. My career started in Hollywood,
Calif. and since that time has brought me to Europe, Japan, and
throughout the United States. With well over ten years experience
in beauty, glamour, fashion, and special effects, I have come to
realize the importance of continuity and creating a specific
style'. Our  photographs need to express their own personal
style, whether  it be  boudoir, a wedding, or  swimwear. To
achieve this, we must  decide what lighting, backdrop, wardrobe
and makeup, etc., work together.
      Outdoor photography has always been one of my favorite
medias to shoot. There's nothing better than being outdoors in a
beautiful location! However, it's not always  as  easy as it
looks. The more skin that shows, and  the less control over
lighting can create more problems.
    Here are some basic guidelines on  make-up and  styling  for 
swimwear  and outdoor lighting; along with a step-by-step
application.
Products for the Sun and Water: There are a  few make-up products
that  are  very  important   and   will help you correct any
problems  that might arise when working outdoors.
Pancake Foundation:
A  dry make-up used with a wet sea sponge. It dries instantly and
looks completely natural. You don't have to worry about a shiny
face. It is also used for body makeup.
The Correction Wheel:This product contains three correction 
colors  in  one  container  that camouflages redness, bruises and
brown spots. Used under  foundation it will take care of sun
burn, tan lines, bruises and any discoloration.
Waterproof Mascara :
Most make-up artists will have a good mascara that won't run.
How-ever, a waterproof brand can be used. The formula is 
stronger, so be  careful with contact lenses.
Spritz Bottle:
A very important item! A  spritz bottle has many purposes. It
will wet your sea sponge, keep people cool, re-wet the model's
hair and give her body and face a more dew-like, fresher look. 
Matte Lipsticks:
Compared to a glossy one, a drier lipstick  won't melt under the
sun and looks more natural for swim and sportswear. 
LESS IS MORE: 
When shooting swim or sportswear we now have the model's body to
consider as well as her face. some of the common problems that
will come up are: sunburn, bruises and tan lines.
Here are a few simple solutions:
Sunburn: 
Usually we will notice sunburn on the face or chest  area, and it
will most likely be red. There is a product called Neutralizer; a
yellow grease which eliminates redness or blemishes. Simply apply
with a latex sponge, covering  it with the dry foundation called
Pancake Makeup. It is applied with a damp sea sponge in a shade
that matches the model's skin tone.
Bruises:
 Most likely you will see a bruise on a model's leg. There is a
correction  color  called beard  stiple. It is an orange grease
that camouflages any bluish/purple area such as bruises, large
veins and men's beard stiple. Using  the same technique as  with
the neutralizer; we will apply it with 
a latex sponge, covering it with the appropriate pancake
foundation. A light coat of powder creates an even smoother
finish.
Tan Lines: 
The easiest  problem to solve.  Simply use the pancake foundation
to fill in the whiter areas to match the rest of the body color. 
It will not permanently stain clothes.
KEEPING A FRESH LOOK: 
When working in the hot sun, it can be a challenge keeping your
model looking fresh. An occasional spritz of water on her face
will help. It will make her feel refreshed as well as give a bit
of shine and sparkle. Also, wiping down sweat with a Kleenex,
repowdering with a tan colored powder, will give  your model a
more glowing appearance.
Accessories:
With swim and sportswear we don't want to over do accessories.
Even  if  it  is a more glamorous bathing  suit, too big of an
earring or too many bracelets are  inappropriate. A matc-hing
hairband is always nice, and a medium-sized earring at the most.
Necklaces are usually distracting to the bathing suit being
shown.
STEP BY STEP MAKEUP APPLICATION:
The style of makeup we are about to review, is called CLEAN
BEAUTY. It  is used for any situation which calls for a
well-blended, natural look. Keep in mind that  most outdoor
photography is shot at a distance. Therefore, key areas such as
eyebrows and lips are accentuated.Our model is Heidi Schneider. I
felt Heidi was perfect for this demonstration because she has
natural beauty along with a kind of softness to her face that is
easy and fun to enhance 
STEP ONE: A BASIC SKIN CARE  CHECK. This is important before
applying any makeup. For oily skin, wipe down with a mild
astringent. If the skin is dry, apply a moisturizer. Always start
with a clean face.
STEP TWO:CORRECTION. 
Before applying foundation, neutralizer (a yellow grease) is used
to minimize red areas or blemishes. Concealer (highlighter) is
applied wherever you see an unflattering shadow area; usually it
is under the eyes, sides of nose, mouth, and under the lip. Both
can be dotted on with a sponge or detail brush, then blended out.
NOTE:All corrections should be lightly powdered to set properly.
STEP THREE: FOUNDATION. 
For Swimwear photography we will use a dry makeup called pancake
foundation. It is best applied with a wet sea sponge using a
stippling motion (patting, not rubbing). Start at the forehead
and work down. The foundation should match as closely to the skin
tone as possible.
NOTE: Do not forget the neck and ears, also check the model's
hands.
STEP FOUR: POWDER. 
Foundation must  always be powdered to set  the  make-up and keep
the shine down. A translucent is usually used unless the model
has darker skin; in which  case a tan shade should be used. For
dry skin, a light application is best with a large powder brush;
for oilier skin, use a powder puff. Powder is optional with
pancake foundation.
STEP FIVE: EYES.
 A person's eyebrow's are the focal point of their face and must
not be ignored. First brush through to straighten. Using a stiff
angled brush, I suggest  filling  in  only where needed using a
pressed powder. An eyebrow pencil is another option. For a more
organized, efficient method we are going to separate the eyes
into four (4) sections:
(a) Lid - On Heidi a soft gold was applied with a fluff brush to
enhance her blue/green eyes. This color will expand her eyes
while balancing with her other natural gold tones.
(b) Liner - Is always applied after the lid. Using a detail brush
for smaller areas, a dark green was used following her own eye
shape to give more definition. Eyeliner should always be darker
than the eye color. Another option is to use an eyeliner pencil.
 (c) Crease  A medium shade of brown was applied using an angled
fluff brush. A coral was applied directly in the crease and swept
out unto the outer bone area.
(d) Highlighter Is applied under the brow using a small fluff
brush. The same shade of gold was used to keep continuity.
Highlighter is used to expand the eye and balance the darker
shades.
NOTE: All areas should be blended with a medium sized blending
brush.
(e) Mascara  Will always be applied last. On Heidi we are using a
black mascara. Using a rotating motion, start  at  the bottom of 
the lashes, then go back and do the tips. Between each
application it is important to separate with an eye lash brush;
this is also used in a rotating motion.
STEP SIX: SHADING.
This step is important because it will create the dimension to a
face when worked along with highlighting. The basic areas are:
under the cheek bone, sides of nose, under the chin, and outer
jaw area.
NOTE: Each shading area is optional depending on the facial shape
you are working with. First, apply, then blend out all areas.
STEP SEVEN: CHEEKS. 
The cheeks are normally done after the eyes (a) cheek color -
Using a blush brush, a soft shade of coral was applied directly
on the bone. A curved motion will give you a more pronounced
cheekbone sweeping it into the hairline.
STEP EIGHT: LIPS.
Last but not least we are ready to finish our application with
the lips. (a) The first step is to line them with a color that is
2-3 shades darker than your lip color. The top lip should balance
with the bottom. 
(b) On Heidi we have used a dusty Rose to tie in with her eye and
cheek color. They were first lined with a deeper Rose lining
pencil.
STEP NINE: FINAL BLENDING. When viewing the before and after, It
is clear to see the importance of makeup and hair. Let's review a
few important  pointers: First, notice how well we have blended
all areas. Also take note of  the balancing' of colors used and
amount of application. The style we have chosen is consistent
throughout  the entire application. For swimwear the hair  is
easy to work with and always looks sexy.
EDITOR'S NOTE: 
Jules Warren started her career as a makeup artist and
hairdresserin Hollywood, California. Within the past ten years
her work has brought her to Europe, Japan, and throughout the
United States. She is also a certified teacher and keynote
speaker, touring the country teaching professionals makeup theory
and image. 
Her credits include:
 Magazines: Playboy, Women's Wear Daily, Int'l Vogues 
Clients:  Coca Cola, AT & T, CitiBank, Swimwear Illustrated, Ray
Ban. 
Celebrities: Charlie Sheen, Lynn Redgrave, Patrick Swayze,
Jennifer Grey, Charles Grodin, Hugh Hefner, Roy Rodgers, June
Lockhart, Dick Cavett, Eric Estrada
FOR  MORE INFORMATION ON HER PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS CALL OR WRITE:
JULES WARREN COSMETICS
1717 N. BAYSHORE DRIVE
SUITE 110
MIAMI, FLORIDA 33132
PHONE: INSIDE FLORIDA:
1-305-733-0884
OUTSIDE THE STATE OF FLORIDA:
1-800-766-7532. JW
